조선전기 여성용 장삼의 형태와 용도에 관한 시론試論

Abstract

The following are the results of the study on the use and shape of women’s jangsam in the early Joseon Dynasty based on the literary records and pictorial materials. Due to the lack of resources from the early Joseon era, those from the late era were referred to as well for more comprehensive research. First, at the national funerals, all women under the queen of both the royal court and the household of government officials wore bonguk-jangsam, an equivalent to Chinese daesu, as a mourning garment. As the funeral rites and court rituals used to be a conventional part of royal etiquette with rare changes, through the painting of daesu in Gukjosangrye Bopyeon published in the late Joseon Dynasty bonguk-jangsam of the early Joseon was confirmed as jangsam with straight collar. Second, court ladies used red jangsam for cerements and ornament at funeral. As a rule, ordinary clothes were put on for cerements and a miniature of the dead person’s everyday item was used for ornament. Thus, it was concluded that red jangsam was court ladies’ ordinary garment and its shape was the same as that of bonguk-jangsam. Third, red jangsam was put on at the wedding ceremonies of crown princesses and royal relatives. That the material was the same as what was used for court ladies’ jangsam for cerements and ornaments showed that red jangsam for wedding was jangsam with straight collar. Fourth, jangsam was also worn by gisaeng, Korean geisha. The black jangsam of the gisaeng presented in Akhakgwebeom was jangsam with turnback collar, not bonguk-jangsam. This garment was called mongdueui or mongduri. Fifth, court’s maids whose position was lower than sanggung wore bonguk mongdueui, a grade lower garment, at the national funerals. It corresponded to baeja of concubines. Presumably, it was the same shape as jangsam with turnback collar worn by concubines or gisaengs. Lastly, women of the household of government officials also wore jangsam with turnback collar. The portraits of Princess Gyeongsin(unknown~1426) and lady Hayeon (1376~1453) supported this conclusion, respectively. Jangsam with turnback collar was excavated at a tomb of aristocrat’s wife in the 16th century, too. These show that jangsam with turnback collar was used as formal dress or cerements. According to Sangryebiyo, wonsam, mongdueui or jangoja were used as cerements and here, jangsam with turnback collar was mongdueui. As discussed above, there were two types of jangsam in the early Joseon Dynasty, namely jangsam with straight collar and jangsam with turnback collar, and both were formal dress worn for various occasions both while living and after death.