고성 남씨 묘 출토 장의(長衣)에 관한 연구

Abstract

"Jang-eui" was a unisex clothing by the early Joseon Dynasty era but it became a typical outer clothing for only the women of the era in the middle of the dynasty and changed to cover women's face at the end of the kingdom. This research intends to review formative features of Jang-eui which was one of the most typical women's outer clothing of the Joseon Dynasty era by its period and divide correct periods of the clothing in comparison of the Mrs. Nam’s "Jang-eui" excavated at Youngdong, Chungcheongbuk-do Province. Formative features of "Jang-eui" are found in its composition, fabric, collar, gusset, sleeve and gusset, "mu"(fabric added to a dress to allow some margin on it)and the coat string according to the literature data related to Jang-eui and the reports on the excavated costume. 1) "Baerae"(dropped part of a sleeve) of a sleeve changed from mild straight to oblique line. 2) Inner gusset was made of two sheets like outer gusset instead of one. 3) Size of a coat string and "dong-jeong"(thin white cloth-covered collar for Korean traditional clothes) changed. 4) Fanciness was more emphasized by changing the color of collar, coat string and triangle "mu"