궁중정재복식에 사용된 한삼의 변천: 조선시대 이후 일제강점기까지

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine the changes of the hansam, one of the Royal Court Dancing Costumes, since the Joseon Dynasty until the Japanese colonial era. The historical consideration are made from the documents, the paintings on banquets in the royal palace, artifacts and photos. In particular, the actual use cases are researched based on Uigwe(Royal Protocols). Hansam was dressed as an underwear to wear inside jeogori in the Joseon Dynasty but it has separated from the clothes into a piece of cloth around the wrist in the late Joseon period. Hansam in the early Joseon period was the long-sleeved clothes like Cheoyong's costume in 『Akhakgwebeom』. The types of the late Joseon's hansam were five-colored hansam and jade green hansam and the types of the late Joseon's long-sleeved clothes were danui(red clothes), danui(single layered clothes) and Cheoyong's ui(outer robe). The size of hansam has been Increasingly long and wide. There were several kinds of hansam, so specific hansam was choosed in accordance with the gender or the kind of dance. Five-colored hansam was for female dancers and solid-color hansam was for boy dancers. The types of the late Joseon's hansam were five-colored hansam, white hansam, red hansam, green hansam, and jade green hansam. The colors, materials and costs of hansam were different depends on dance's contents or importance. Female dancers from Seoncheon(宣川)'s hansam were made with luxury, expensive material to classify general female dancers. Intensive study on the royal court dancing costume and its cultural background, such as production, provision, and wearing, can enhance the understanding of the royal court banquet culture.