性齋 許傳의 深衣 연구

Abstract

This article examines Heojeon’s interpretation of the symbolic meaning of simui, the cloth for Confucian scholars. He analyzed Yegi and Uirye alongside with Garye under the assumption that the contents of the sections of “Simui” and “Okjo” in Yegi are complementary to the section of “Sangbok” in Uirye : the approach, from which he was confident that he found the essence of the ancient scriptures. According to his interpretation, simui could be worn on in a variety of situations no matter whether the wearer is a civil or military officer, man or woman, what social class he or she belongs to, and how fortunate or unfortunate the situation is. Its design also enfolds some symbolic meanings; for instance, bangryeong, a rectangular-shaped collar under the neck, signifies the carpenter’s square, the sleeves arched in a semicircle shape means a rule, stitches on the beck symbolizes straightness, and the alignment of the lower rim signifies the evenness of a scale. On the other hand, the size of the trousers, twelve poks, correspond to the twelve months of one year. Regarding the debate about the meanings and locations of gokgeop and sogimgubyeon in simui, Heojeon, based on the scriptures, concluded that gokgeop is bangryeong, a collar with a rectangular-shape under the neck area whereas im in “sogimgubyeon” means the patches located both on the shirt and trousers. (The patch attached at the end of bangryeong in the case of the shirt and the two poks at the end of the twelve poks of trousers.) Despite the negative recognition of the rectangular shape of the collar at the time, Heojeon claimed only that form corresponds with the ancient rite and the record in Garye. Simui Heojeon suggested was the cloth with perfection and no waste, expressing the veneration for abstemiousness following the ancient scriptures. He was confident that, by making and wearing simui correctly according to his suggestion, people in Joseon could not only express their respects for the ancient saints but also fulfill the lesson of previous kings by saving fabrics.