한백겸의 『구암유고(久菴遺稿)』에 나타난 방령심의에 관한 실증적 연구

Abstract

The Bangryeong-Simeui (方領深衣) appeared in Joseon at the end of the 16th century and was most commonly used along with the Jikryeongsimeui (直領深衣) until the early 20th century. Han Baekgyeom (韓百謙, 1552-1615), who first modified Zhu Xi(朱熹)'s simeui, recognized that the collar becomes a rhombic shape when wearing the Jikryeongsimui (直領深衣). The purpose of the study is theoretical consideration and empirical restoration production of the Bangryeong-Simeui system. Han Baekgyeom raised questions about Zhu Xi's 『Garye(家禮)』, which was considered an absolute rule at the end of the 16th century. A new simeui in the form of a Daegeumhyeong(對襟形) collared simeui with no overlapping squared collar simeui fastened with two pairs of knot buttons was presented in 『Guamyugo(久菴遺稿)』 through historical research on examples based on the original scriptures. The summary of the research results is as follows. First, 「Sogimgubyeon(續衽鉤邊)」, 「Gokgeap(曲袷)」, 「Geo(袪)」, 「Jun(純)」, 「Buseung(負繩)」, 「Daedae(大帶)」, and 「Simeuido(深衣圖)」 which are recorded in 『Guamyugo』 were theoretically reviwed. Second, based on theoretical considerations, the fabric trimming method, size and a flat sketch of the simeui, and cutting size and cutting method were presented to produce Han Baek-gyeom's Bangryeongsimui shown in 『Guamyugo』. In addition, the entire construction process was studied in detail. Most previous studies on simeui were focused on theoretical considerations on Jikryeongsimeui, and this study is meaningful in that it paralleled theoretical considerations on Bangryeong-simeui in Daegeumhyeong by Han Baekgyeom, the first Bangryeong-simeui, as well as empirical research. Most of the preceding studies on Simeui were focused on theoretical considerations on Jikryeong-Simeui, and this study is meaningful in that it paralleled theoretical considerations on Bangryeong-Simeui in Daegeumhyeong by Han Baekgyeom, the first Bangryeong-Simeui, as well as empirical research. In addition, it is expected that considering detailed composition methods related to actual production will be helpful for researchers who want to produce Bangryeongsimui and the historical research and restoration research of traditional costumes.