중국 역대 적의(翟衣) 형태 연구-심의형(深衣型)에서 통재형(通裁型)으로의 변화를 중심으로-

Abstract

This study delves into the form of Jeogui (翟衣), a ceremonial garment worn by imperial women throughout China. The Jeogui, an imperial women's robe adorned with a red common pheasant pattern, traces its origins to the ancient Chinese text, 『Zhouli』. Beginning with the Northern and Southern Dynasties, when 『Zhouli 』 reorganized the imperial official uniform system, Jeogui emerged as the most prestigious imperial attire in China, enduring until the Ming Dynasty. In the 『Zhouli』 「Neisifu」 note, Zhengxuan elaborated on the six clothing types within the Simui, where Ui and Sang are interconnected. However, the flat sketch of Empress Ming's Hwiui, included in 『Mingjili』「Guanfutu」 compiled in 1370, exhibited a Tongjae form, with no distinction between top and bottom. This form was adopted for Jeogui during the late Goryeo and Korean Empire periods. Therefore, to fully comprehend the origins of clothing forms in both Korea and China, it is crucial to determine when imperial women's formal attire transitioned to this particular form. This study meticulously organizes and analyzes the scriptures and annotations of the 『Zhouli』 「Neisifu」, tracing the evolution of Jeogui's form through the lens of the Chinese imperial family's female official uniform system, along with relevant excavated artifacts, paintings, and flat sketches. Zhengxuan employed Han dynasty curved clothing to conceptualize Simui. These curved garments gradually transformed into highly ornate Gyuui, becoming the attire of imperial women during the Later Han and Southern Dynasties. As the form of Simui clothing transitioned to Tongjae, beginning with the Tang Dynasty, the possibility of Sang's incorporation into imperial women's formal attire emerged. The Jin dynasty system provided concrete evidence regarding the specific details of Sang worn with Hwiui.