박규수의 『거가잡복고(居家雜服考)』에 나타난 방령심의에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study aims to examine the Bangryeongsimui system in Park Gyu-Su's Geogajapbokgo in Book 1, Volume 1 of the Oebok. The Geogajapbokgo, published in 1841, comprises three volumes of the two books. It focuses on restoring old Chinese clothing based on Park Gyu-Su's extensive knowledge of ritual theory and a practical view of the clothes. At that time, noblemen wore Dopo as formal and everyday clothes and wore Gat on their heads. Unlike the customs of the time, Park Gyu-Su proposed Simui as formal attire and daily clothes, a practical and realistic approach. He outlined a method for making Simui and explained it with illustrations. Park's Bangryeongsimui system is significant because it proposed practical and realistic clothing reform plans through historical evidence rather than following the opinions of wise men and the scriptures. The research method employs a twofold approach. First, it analyzes the theoretical foundation of Park Gyu-Su's Bangryeongsimui system as presented in the Geogajapbokgo's Oebok section. It includes examining the symbolism associated with Simui's various elements. The system proposed by Park Kyu-Su was considered in detail to produce the deliberation worn as the Jungui of Hyundan. Second, the study delves into the practical aspects of creating Park Gyu-Su's Bangryeongsimui, including fabric preparation, measurement, patterning, cutting, and sewing processes. This research differentiates itself by combining theoretical analysis with the practical application of Park Gyu-Su's Bangryeongsimui, providing valuable insights into traditional clothing restoration. The findings will contribute significantly to historical clothing research and traditional clothing restoration.