용인 영덕동 출토 금원문직금능 재현 연구

Abstract

The study aimed to manufacture Pyeongeumsa and Pyeoneunsa based on data for research and analysis on artifacts regarding Kumwonmun Jik-geumneung Jangjeogori excavated from Youndokudon Yongin and reconstruct Kumwonmun Jik-geumneung by using a hand weaving jacquard loom. Through an analysis of the artifacts, it was found that the thickness of the thread was 0.138～0.233㎜ (warp thread) and 0.198～0.338㎜ (weft thread), and the width of Pyeongeumsa was 0.275 to 0.412㎜. The density was 69 strands/㎝ (ground weft) and 34 strands/㎝ (pile weft). For the pattern weave it was 1/2 3-piece ↖ weft face twill against the backdrop of 2/1 3-piece warp face twill. In particular, three strands of ground weft thread fell out every five or six strands at the back of gold thread, which showed the characteristics of gold in-woven textile of the late Goryeo Dynasty. As for the flat gold thread required to manufacture gold in-woven textile, an adhesive with 10% glue mixed with 1.5% red clay was used on a prepared paper. For the flat silver thread, gilt was attached based on 10% glue, and it was cut to 0.3 and 0.4㎜. Through the weaving, it was found that the appropriate thickness of warp thread was 21/6 (126D), while for weft thread was 21/3 2-strand (126D). As the result of the examination from the artifacts, the background was 2/1 3-piece ↖ warp face twill and the pattern was 71/2 3-piece weft face twill. For the gold thread weaving, alternate-strand 1/5 ↗ weft face twill was applied. The size of 1-repeat pattern was 17.5㎝ in Gyeonghyang and 10㎝ in Wihyang which was similar to the artifact. The color was assumed to be red for reconstruction based on paintings and literature from the early Joseon Dynasty. This study aimed to restore a forgotten weaving technology for gold-in woven textile and gain basic research data on traditional textile technology.