용인 영덕동 출토 금원문(金圓紋) 저고리의 제직특성 연구

Abstract

This study identifies the techniques of expression of gold rounded patterns through an investigation into and analysis of textiles excavatedfrom the Yeongdeokdong site located in Yongin, and also examines their chronological characteristics. It found that the textiles expressedthrough the gold rounded patterns were jik-geum textiles, not gold leaf textiles. Two types of metal threads were used for weaving,including flat gold threads and flat silver threads. It is presumed that since the excavation area is an environment that easily erodes vegetablefibers, badges were fused and became lost, leaving gold leaves only. Weave structure is twill with supplementary gold threads on thetwill damask. As for the back of the textile, part of the ground wefts was removed from the tissue for balanced density. The gold roundedpattern features a very special shape with two birds placed in the upper and lower sides and a cloud pattern around them, which forms asingle pattern. Jik-geum textiles in the same pattern are found in the Tokyo Museum in Japan. Both are very similar in terms of the patternshape and physical nature of the textile, but their tissues are different. Also, as the textiles found in Japan used only flat gold threads,they are different, and it is presumed that it was made by copying the gold rounded pattern in the same period. As such, it is presumedthat the gold rounded pattern jik-geum textiles excavated in Yeongdeokdong, Yongin can be dated to between the latter early Joseon(15thcentury). The jik-geum jackets that have been found thus far have featured the jik-geum pattern at the bottom of the gil. However, the onlytextiles that feature a gold rounded pattern throughout the gil on the front as well as the back sides are the jik-geum textiles, making themsignificant in the history of traditional Korean costume.