천마총 출토 금직물 연구 - 現 경주문화재 연구소 소장품을 중심으로 -

Abstract

This study attempts to examine the weaving characteristics, properties, patterns and colors of 18 kinds of Geum-Silk Fabrics, compoundwoven fabrics that were mainly used as clothing materials for members of the aristocracy, including the kings of the time, among the fabricscurrently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, which were excavated from Chunmachong Tomb anddate back to the 5th-6th century. The findings of this study show that the fabrics are garment plain weave fabrics manifesting the appearanceof wrap rib weave and other properties similar to those of the Geum-Silk Fabrics from the Three Kingdoms Era in the previous studies. The unique difference from the results of the previous study is that, among the Geum-Silk Fabrics in this study, there are types on whichthe patterns and colors are distinctly identifiable. The types whose patterns and colors are distinctly identifiable are in such good conditionthat even their forms of colors and patterns can be distinctly identified, and the patterns with different colors from the background clearlyreveal themselves, and therefore are thought to provide invaluable data for future studies on the patterns and colors of the ancient KoreanGeum-Silk Fabrics. These types of Geum-Silk Fabrics have distinctly identifiable reddish dot patterns against a bluish background, which arethought to be geometric patterns similar to the patterns seen on the garments in Goguryeo Tomb murals, and they are thought to offer invaluabledata in the studies on the patterns of garments of Three Kingdoms Era. The patterns of the Geum-Silk Fabrics investigated in thisstudy, and the geometric patterns in particular, are expected to aid the development of novel designs through modern re-interpretation dueto their unique figurative beauty.