고려시대 직금 직물의 조직 특성 및 유형 분류

Abstract

The following research is to examine the weave structure by investigating and analyzing gold woven silk from the Goryeo Dynasty. The excavation for Jik-geum textile is very much focused on the late 14th century. Until this point, 50 pieces of gold woven silk fabrics from the Goryeo Dynasty has been excavated. Among those gold woven silk fabrics, there are incense bags, sutra case, norigae, bamboo roll cover, and cover of Buddhist scriptures. Other pieces are just small scraps. Gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. All of the gold thread used for making Jik-geum is a flat gold thread. The structure of Jik-geum from Goryeo Dynasty can be classified into lampas, weave with supplementary weft, brocade and some of them are also tapestries. Korean Jik-geum was commonly produced in weave with supplementary wefts. On the basis of foundation structures, it could be classified as tabby with supplementary golden weft (織金䌷), twill with supplementary golden weft (織金绫), damask with supplementary golden weft (織金纹绫), satin with supplementary golden weft (織金缎), and simple gauze with supplementary golden weft (織金紗).