근대 조선 기생복식 문화에 관한 연구

Abstract

Joseon experienced drastic social changes while going through modernization. Modernization changed lifestyle and values of people, which were reflected in the costumes and modern costumes of Joseon were changed to the shape which is completely different from the costumes of the Joseon Dynasty period. Meanwhile, gisaengs (Joseon geisha) lived under the systems such as regulations and gisaeng union due to the characteristics as a prostitute and control of the metropolitan police. Modern gisaeng costumes are based on the traditional hair style and hanbok (Korean traditional clothes. Jeogori (jacket) increased in length and the width of sleeve widened same as the top of western costume. On the other hand, influenced by the costumes of Japanese women, First, hair styles like parting hair at the side, waved hair and lovelock which were popular among Japanese women were added to the traditional buns. In addition, hairpin was used to fasten waved hair due to the ban on bobbed hair by the control over costumes. Second, ‘geodeulchima (a lined skirt)’ of the traditional hahusangbak (slender upper body and exaggerated lower body) and ‘juritdaechima (a skirt designed to wear by hiking up to chest level and fasten)’ similar to the kimono silhouette of geisha were also shown. Third, same as the costumes of Japanes women, a semiformal suit that mixed traditional and western costumes was shown in modern gisaeng. And they expressed style suited to the taste of foreign guests of those days by accepting both makeup style of Japanese geisha and that of the west. Likewise, modern gisaengs were in the position as a successor of artistic skills of traditional singing and dancing of the Joseon Dynasty period and as a fashion leader who assimilated western civilization quickly. Ironically, they played an intermediate role to inherit tradition and spread new culture. Although gisaengs showed off wealth they got through the job and decorated themselves, they imitated costumes of the new women or female students to hide their identity as a gisaeng even after the abolition of the caste system.