근세 한・일 풍속화에 나타난 기녀복식 형태 비교

Abstract

This study compared the costume of “ginyeo” (also spelled “gisaeng”, Korean females entertaining nobilities in the past) during Late Joseon Period in Korea and Edo Period in Japan. The result of study is as following. The “ginyeos” during Late Joseon Period wore costume in subdued colors but favored “norigae” (traditional ornaments worn by women) in primary colors. On the other hand, the “ginyeos” during Edo Period emphasized the contrast of colors by wearing multiple “gosodes” (traditional Japanese costume for women). The costume of Japanese “ginyeos” looked like a canvas of painting by having variety of embroideries and patterns. In addition, the “ginyeos” during Late Joseon Period exposed female body in delicate manner by showing underwear and jar-like silhouette; while the “ginyeos” during Edo Period emphasized voluptuous beauty by exposing neckline. Regarding makeup, “ginyeos” in both countries favored white skin. During Late Joseon Period, there was unique makeup of “ginyeo”, which was called “bundae-hwajang”. On the other hand, Japanese “ginyeo” had their own unique make-up such as black tooth, two-color make-up for lips and diverse eyebrow shapes. Regarding hairstyle, “ginyeos” in Late Joseon Period had uniform style which is called “unjeun-meori”. Meanwhile, “ginyeos” in Edo Period had various hairstyles. At the time, the influence of “ginyeo” in Japan was quite big and various that the name of each hairstyle is succeeded till today as unique name. In addition, “ginyeos” in both countries favored large hairstyle. It is believed that they want to demonstrate their wealth by using expensive “gache” (traditional wig for female) and assortment of hair ornaments. Regarding ornaments, “ginyeos” during Late Joseon Period used “jeonmo” (traditional sunshade cap made of bamboo) and “garima” (a large black cloth covering head but exposing face). They also used hair ornaments decorated with jewelry. Meanwhile, “ginyeos” during Edo Period used “kougai”, of which both ends are luxuriously decorated, and two or three “gusis” in various shapes on their hair. Then they added few “ganjasis” in symmetry. The characteristic of Edo Period “ginyeos” in hair is that they emphasized hair ornaments together with hairstyle.