근세 한ㆍ일 기녀복식의 조형 특성 비교 고찰

Abstract

This study is a comparative study on the formative characteristics of recent age costume of Korean gisaeng and Japanese geisha, women trained as a professional singer, dancer, and companion for men. Regarding the costume form, both Korean gisaeng and Japanese geisha had similarity in having rhythmic beauty coming from exaggerated (or reduced) ample and long costume. Both of them also produced voluptuous beauty by exposure. On the other hand, the costume of Korean gisaeng in late Joseon dynasty exaggerated the voluptuous hip of female by pot-like silhouette. Meanwhile, the costume of Japanese geisha had straight silhouette by overlapping kosode, which does not have separation of upper wear and lower wear. Regarding color, the costume of late Joseon Korean gisaeng used five cardinal colors and traditional subdued natural colors. Meanwhile, the costume of Edo age Japanese geisha had luxurious coloration using prime colors while adding georgeousness by contrasting colors with white skin. However, as the use of prime color became banned, the use of prime colors decreased. Regarding the difference of Korea and Japan, the costume of late Joseon gisaeng attracted attention to bosom by emphasizing it using red inside-tab and prime color ornament matched with costume with subdued coloration. Meanwhile, the costume of Edo age Japanese geisha had the beauty of various color schemes using secondary colors. Japanese geisha also preferred black color, which was not used by Korean gisaeng. Regarding material and pattern, the costume of both Korean gisaeng and Japanese geisha emphasized formative beauty by expensive material and had costume attract attention by decorating it with various patterns. The costume of Korean gisaeng wished good luck by decorating it with symbolic pattern. On the other hand, the costume of Japanese geisha took the theme of popular poetry or used various patterns. The costume of Japanese geisha also decorated relatively simple kosode with pattern arrangement.