트렌드세터(Trend-Setter)로서 조선후기 기생의 뷰티와 패션에 관한 연구
The Study on Gisaeng's Beauty and Fashion as Trend-Setters in the Late Joseon Dynasty
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The Korean traditional costume and beauty structure have not been changed much since the period of the three States. Especially, women’s costume and make-up were more stationary. However, women’s clothes has just started to be changed from the mid-Choson period, and the clothes and make-up for Gisaeng had a great change in the late Joseon Dynasty. Gisaeng was more interested in fashion and beauty than the public did, and their class tended to seek a new change relatively faster than others. Thus, Gisaeng’s clothes style was leading a trendy fashion and beauty, and it impacted on other classes’ clothes style from the noble class to working one. As a trendsetter at that time, it affected Joseon Dynasty's beauty behaviour and fashion structure, which has not changed for a long time. This research studied about which kinds of Gisaeng’s beauty and fashion, which adopted to change clothes style by women at that time, and did also about the way the make-up and clothes style of a special status as Gisaeng could be in vogue with which background. Through an examination of the theoretical background, it had a deep significance in the period, as well as when Gisaeng held influence over fashion in the late Joseon Dynasty. Classes of leisure were increased due to economic enhancements. In addition, a frank atmosphere of society was seen, as evidenced by Silhak. Women of the upper class wore clothing with gorgeous bottoms and skin-tight tops, which were popular among Gisaeng. Gisaeng wore sumptuous garments which subject to fewer social restrictions, in comparison to the clothing which ordinary women wore. Ordinary women had limits on their freedom, and had to wear thrifty clothes because of strict Confucianism values. Gisaeng could meet with the men of the ruling class and performed social activities as governed by Confucianism. Gisaeng became objects of attention among ordinary women. Noble women tried to imitate Gisaeng’s clothing, and ordinary women who accumulated wealth imitated Gisaeng’s sumptuous costume to hide their social status. By considering their role as trend-setters, the image of Gisaeng should be re-evaluated, as it has been distorted. A follow-up study should be conducted based on this subject’s needs.
Abstract
The Korean traditional costume and beauty structure have not been changed much since the period of the three States. Especially, women’s costume and make-up were more stationary. However, women’s clothes has just started to be changed from the mid-Choson period, and the clothes and make-up for Gisaeng had a great change in the late Joseon Dynasty. Gisaeng was more interested in fashion and beauty than the public did, and their class tended to seek a new change relatively faster than others. Thus, Gisaeng’s clothes style was leading a trendy fashion and beauty, and it impacted on other classes’ clothes style from the noble class to working one. As a trendsetter at that time, it affected Joseon Dynasty's beauty behaviour and fashion structure, which has not changed for a long time. This research studied about which kinds of Gisaeng’s beauty and fashion, which adopted to change clothes style by women at that time, and did also about the way the make-up and clothes style of a special status as Gisaeng could be in vogue with which background. Through an examination of the theoretical background, it had a deep significance in the period, as well as when Gisaeng held influence over fashion in the late Joseon Dynasty. Classes of leisure were increased due to economic enhancements. In addition, a frank atmosphere of society was seen, as evidenced by Silhak. Women of the upper class wore clothing with gorgeous bottoms and skin-tight tops, which were popular among Gisaeng. Gisaeng wore sumptuous garments which subject to fewer social restrictions, in comparison to the clothing which ordinary women wore. Ordinary women had limits on their freedom, and had to wear thrifty clothes because of strict Confucianism values. Gisaeng could meet with the men of the ruling class and performed social activities as governed by Confucianism. Gisaeng became objects of attention among ordinary women. Noble women tried to imitate Gisaeng’s clothing, and ordinary women who accumulated wealth imitated Gisaeng’s sumptuous costume to hide their social status. By considering their role as trend-setters, the image of Gisaeng should be re-evaluated, as it has been distorted. A follow-up study should be conducted based on this subject’s needs.
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