대한제국 적의본 문양 연구

Abstract

The Jeogui(a ceremonial pheasant robe) was the highest formal attire worn by royal women who continued the legitimate or main line of descent. As for making patterns for Jeogui, a total of four are extant; a 12-tier Jeoguibon possessed at the National Museum of Korea(NMK), a 12-tier Jeoguibon, a 9-tier Jeoguibon, and an explanatory diagram of Jeogui housed at the National Palace Museum of Korea(NPMK) which were reported in 2012. All of these Jeoguibons were drawn on traditional Korean paper(hanji) and consisted a pheasant motif, a circular flower motif, and a dragon(or phoenix)-cloud motif. This study examined extant artifacts. In particular, the author considered the formativeness and symbolism of the motifs and comparatively analyzed each of them. According to the results of the present study, the shapes of the pheasants drawn on the Jeoguibon differed from the pheasant motif and the circular flower motif found in portraits of Chinese empresses from the Song Dynasty(960-1279) and Ming Dynasty(1368-1644). The circular flower motif, the name given in historical documents, likewise was replaced and expressed by the plum flower motif(Ihwa-mun), which was the motif symbolizing the Korean imperial family and the Korean Empire. As an unexpected result of the this study, it was necessary to confirm that the plum flower motif on both Jeogui and Jeoguibon differed clearly from that on diverse art crafts dating from the Korean Empire. During the Korean Empire, in the process of newly organizing the ceremonial pheasant robe system which was originated from China, the motifs in particular seemed to have been independently received. As it was apparently received from the existence of extant artifacts, it was imperative to establish the ceremonial pheasant robe system of the Korean Empire by producing multiple making patterns for the attire.