조선 말기 왕실복식 소재에 관한 연구 - 영왕가(英王家) 직물무늬의 유형 및 명칭을 중심으로 -

Abstract

The objective of the present study is to identify the types and names of fabric patterns observed in the dress and ornament of King Yeong's family at the end of in the Joseon Dynasty. For this purpose, we examined and classified fabric patterns recorded in literature from the late Joseon Dynasty, and compared them with the dress and ornament of King Yeong's family. The subject of this study is, among fabrics used for King Yeong, Queen Yeong and their descendants' clothing, 159 pieces of fabrics with patterns. This study was focused on the woven patterns of fabrics. The results of this study presented above are summed up as follows. Fabric patterns in the dress and ornament of King Yeong's family were classified into six types. Listing the order of frequency in use of each pattern, plant patterns were most commonly; used by 42%, character patterns were the next by 19%, animal patterns used by 18%, natural scenery patterns used by 8%, geometrical patterns used by 7%, object patterns used by 6%. The dress and ornament of King Yeong's family exhibits the dignity of the royal family's style by using a wide variety of patterns. In particular, patterns symbolizing the royal family were used frequently. In addition, symbolic patterns were used widely, and character patterns expressing earnest wishes were also used commonly. In the formative aspect, flower patterns were often deployed on a geometrical background pattern, and new patterns like pomegranate-grape patterns giving a very contemporary feeling also appeared. As to the names of patterns, articles named 'Ohoromun(오호로문)', 'Byeolmun(別紋)', 'Gubongmun(九鳳紋)' and 'Subokmun(壽蝠紋)' consistent with records in literature were found.