명대(明代) 곤룡포(袞龍袍) 형태 연구

Abstract

A Gunlong-Pao (袞龍袍; Gonryongpo) is a familiar dress in the royal family costume history, such that related research has been conducted in Korea and China. However, in Korea, the Gunlong-Pao was researched only to the necessary level while researching the Gunlong-pao of the Joseon dynasty. In China, the research remained a simple analysis without specifically investigating a detailed form of the Gunlong-Pao. Therefore, this study investigated the detailed form of the Gunlong-Pao during the entire period of the Ming dynasty to confirm changes by period and the commonality and difference by status. The detailed form was considered: first, analysis of whether it was single or lined clothes; second, analysis of bodice length, bust width, and sleeve length based on dimensions; and third, analysis of collar, sleeve, and Mu(擺) based on shape. The research data comprehensively utilized literature, relics, and paintings. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the diversification of the Gunlong-Pao style and the diversification aspect of the detailed form was evident from the former period to the later period of the Ming dynasty. In particular, a Situan-Gunlong-Yuanling-Pao (四團袞龍圓領袍: robe with a round collar expressed with four dragon patterns in the winding form), which is a basic form described by the system in the former period, was maintained to the later period, but in the later period, the Gunlong-Pao to which several dragon patterns were applied appeared with numbers of patterns, such as 8, 10, 12, etc. Also, it was characterized by the appearance of the Gunlong-Pao with a straight collar(直領). The most notable point of the detailed forms was the appearance of various forms in the ‘Mu,’ which is attached separately to the waist.