원삼의 근대적 절충양상과 의미
A Study on the Modern Eclectic Aspect and Insight of the Wonsam
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This study investigates the modern eclectic aspect and meaning of Wonsam(圓衫), a woman's formal dress, in the early modern period. Visual data containing relics and wearing techniques of Wonsam before and after the Korean Empire were analyzed, and the results are presented as follows. First, the cause of Wonsam as the Korean Empire's court dress and the formal dress was the nationalization of women's ceremonial dress after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592, the similar shape of Noui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫), and Wonsam was used of the four ceremonial occasions. Thus, it was analyzed in terms of the universalization of Wonsam. Second, the wearing techniques and characteristics of the modern Wonsam were divided into hairstyles, colors, the order, the rank badge, and gold ornaments. The hairstyle was gradually simplified from the Geodumi(巨頭味) to the eoyeomeoli and the flower crown. The color of Wonsam was distinguished by yellow, red, green, burgundy, and black, depending on the status of the empress. The orders of Seobongdaesu(瑞鳳大綬勳章), which was worn along with Wonsam, played a symbolic role in revealing the highest authority and was worn only at ceremonies supervised by the empress. Among the rank badge attached to Wonsam, the dragon pattern was allowed to be extended to women in the imperial family by the status of the Korean Empire. As for the gold ornament, the dragon pattern was embellished on Wonsam for the empress, and even Saekdong and Hansam were decorated with gold and became splendid. Third, the modern eclectic aspects and meanings of Wonsam in formal attires were analyzed to expand and simplify the usage of Wonsam, reinforce class distinction, and maintain uniqueness. In the period of the Korean Empire, Wonsam became a representative formal ceremonial dress, and the hairstyle also became simple. The hair ornaments, the color of Wonsam, the order, the rank badge, and the gold ornaments were distinctive to express the class. In addition, while maintaining the uniqueness of Wonsam, it revealed pride and identity for national culture.
Abstract
This study investigates the modern eclectic aspect and meaning of Wonsam(圓衫), a woman's formal dress, in the early modern period. Visual data containing relics and wearing techniques of Wonsam before and after the Korean Empire were analyzed, and the results are presented as follows. First, the cause of Wonsam as the Korean Empire's court dress and the formal dress was the nationalization of women's ceremonial dress after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592, the similar shape of Noui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫), and Wonsam was used of the four ceremonial occasions. Thus, it was analyzed in terms of the universalization of Wonsam. Second, the wearing techniques and characteristics of the modern Wonsam were divided into hairstyles, colors, the order, the rank badge, and gold ornaments. The hairstyle was gradually simplified from the Geodumi(巨頭味) to the eoyeomeoli and the flower crown. The color of Wonsam was distinguished by yellow, red, green, burgundy, and black, depending on the status of the empress. The orders of Seobongdaesu(瑞鳳大綬勳章), which was worn along with Wonsam, played a symbolic role in revealing the highest authority and was worn only at ceremonies supervised by the empress. Among the rank badge attached to Wonsam, the dragon pattern was allowed to be extended to women in the imperial family by the status of the Korean Empire. As for the gold ornament, the dragon pattern was embellished on Wonsam for the empress, and even Saekdong and Hansam were decorated with gold and became splendid. Third, the modern eclectic aspects and meanings of Wonsam in formal attires were analyzed to expand and simplify the usage of Wonsam, reinforce class distinction, and maintain uniqueness. In the period of the Korean Empire, Wonsam became a representative formal ceremonial dress, and the hairstyle also became simple. The hair ornaments, the color of Wonsam, the order, the rank badge, and the gold ornaments were distinctive to express the class. In addition, while maintaining the uniqueness of Wonsam, it revealed pride and identity for national culture.
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