1829년 자경전 진찬에 참여한 왕실 구성원과 내외빈(內外賓)의 복식 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to examine the composition and characteristics of the costume of the royal familes and related persons by comparing and analyzing on 1829’s picture named Royal Banquet at Jagyeongjeon and uigwe. The results of this study can be used to enhance understanding of the royal banquet culture of the 19th century and practically historical evidence for reenacting the royal ceremony. The results of the study are as follows. : First, kings and crown princes wore Ikseon official uniform. Garments for the King (Gollyongpo) were scarlet, and those for the prince were lapis lazul. For the areas of breast and back as well as both shoulders of the king’s garments, Ojoryong (literally meaning five-fingernail dragon) with background color being red was embroidered in gold thread, and for the prince’s garments, Sajoryong (literally meaning four-fingernail dragon) with background color being lapis lazul was embroidered in gold thread. It is presumed that it was made in a little bit smaller size for the shoulders, compared to the areas of breast and back. As seen in a portrait of King Youngjo, it is presumed that the dragon was posed frontward. Carved Okdae (belt made in jade) with background color being red was used for the king, while non-carved Okdae with background color being lapis lazul was used for the prince. Additionally, black shoes and Jeong made in white wool were worn. Second, Heukdallyeongbok (black uniform) for officials was composed of ‘samo’, ‘yellow-green heukdallyeong’, ‘pumdae’, ‘heukhwa’, and ‘jeong’. It was divided into ‘Dangsanggwan’ and ‘Danghagwan’. Third, Confucian scholars and students wore heukrip or heukrip bokgeon, blue robe, and blue based sejodae. Unmarried ones wore bokgeon, blue robe, and blue based sejodae. It is presumed that they wore unhye or danghye as shoes. Fourth, the wife of crown prince wore susik and lapis lazul jeokui. It is presumed that the susik was replaced with cheob-ji hair or jokduri for royal banquets. There is a possibility that, of the components of jeokui, ‘cheongok’, ‘gyu’, and ‘paeok’, and ‘okdae’ were omitted. Fifth, ladies-in-waiting wore dresses of ‘wonsam’ style or ‘dangui’ style depending on their age and status. In addition, their status was distinguished with court ladies (naemyeongbu) wearing dresses of wonsam or dangui with jik-geum (Silk with supplementary gold wefts) or bugeum (gold imprint) decorations versus ladies waiting outside the court (Oemyeongbu) wearing wonsam or dangui without jik-geum or bugeum decorations.