사절복색자장요람과 법복사절복색을 통해 본 19세기말 왕실여서복식

Abstract

Boepbok-Sajeol-Boksaek which is kept in the Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum, records the royal female costumes of the late 19th century. It is a similar record with Sajeol-Boksaek-Jajang-Yoram in the Sookmyung Women's University Museum. The former deals with costumes for fours seasons, festive days, wedding ceremony, and coming-of-age ceremony after wedding. The latter those for four seasons and festive days of a general year. This study, at first aims to make a comparison between four season and festive costumes common in the two versions, and then investigate wedding and coming-of age ceremony costumes recorded in the Oryundae version. Specifically, this study compared characteristics between royal female ordinary and ceremonial costumes in the late 19th century, with a focus on costume, headdress, accessory and pouch. Royal women wore Dangeuis (female minor ceremonial jackets) as normal four season costumes in the late 19th century. They wore Green Jikgeum Dangeuis or Subokja Geumbak Danheuis as festive costumes. According to the Oryundae version, wedding and coming-of-age ceremony costumes were Hong Jangsams, and Green Jikgeum Wonsams. This version shows that the costumes in the version were worn by royal concubines, prince wives, or princesses, not queens or crown prince wives. For the hair style, Daesu was combined with Hong Jangsams, Keunmeori with Green Jikgeum Wonsam, and Jikgeum or Geumbak Dangeui, and Jojinmeori with an ordinary Dangeui. For the Norigae, Samjak-norigae were worn for wedding ceremony, coming-of-age ceremony, king's birthday, festive days, etc., and light and heavy feeling Norigae were worn in summer and winter, respectively. For the ring, jade, agate, or pearl rings were worn in summer, paran or seho rings in spring and autumn, and gold rings in winter. For the pouch, pearl-decorated pouches were worn for wedding ceremony.