1829년 자경전 진찬에 참여한 차비(差備)의 역할과 복식 유형
The Costume Types of Chabi Attending to the “Royal Banquet at Jagyeongjeon” in 1829
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The following shows the results of comparing and analyzing the “Jagyeongjeon jinchan-do” found in 1829 Gichukjinchan-dobyeong and “Jinchan-uigwe, including the findings of the position and role of Chabi who attended to the royal banquet and its styllistic structure. First, Mostly Yeogwans were responsible for serving King Sunjo, the wife of crown prince and Naebins(honored women guests) who had seat within Jagyeongjeon. Both Yeogwans and Yeoryeongs were responsible for serving the crown prince as he had seat in the garden. Yeoryeongs were responsible for serving Oebins(honored men guests) who had seat outside of the Jagyeongjeon. Second, there were many kinds of Chabi, but a Chabi would often take on multiple roles. As such, the actual number of Chabi who took part was low. King Sunjo had the most numerous Chabi, and Naebins had the second most numerous Chabi. Third, Chabi wearing black Wonsam were all Yeogwan who would either oversee the banquet within Jagyeongjeon or stone steps, or directly attend to the king. They would decorate a artificial Samjihwa in their Eoyeomeori, put a blue belt with black Wonsam, and wear red Onhye. They would wear two different skirts: blue skirt inside and a long blue unlined skirt on the outside. Fourth, Chabi wearing green Wonsam were all Yeogwan serving the king, crown prince, the wife of crown prince and Naebin within the court, stone steps and bamboo blinds. They would decorate a artificial Samjihwa in their Eoyeomeori, put a blue belt with green Wonsam, and wear red Onhye. They would wear a blue skirt inside and a long red unlined skirt on the outside. Fifth, the Chabi wearing green Dangui were Yeoryeong, categorized into three kinds by their outer skirt. The Yeoryeong holding ceremonial weaponry outside of the Jagyeongjeon would wear Garima, a artificial red peach blossom, green Dangui, blue skirt, Heukhye, and white sleeve attachments. The Yeoryeong placed in the garden of Jagyeongjeon would wear Garima, a artificial peony blossom, green Dangui, blue skirt, short red skirt, Heukhye and white sleeve attachments. The Jibsa and Holgi Yeoryeong would wear Garima, a artificial peony blossom, green Dangui, blue skirt, short red skirt, Heukhye, and white sleeve attachments. Sixth, Hyang-kkoji Chabi would wear green shirt with short and narrow sleeves and short red skirt and put on a belt. They would also decorate with hair ribbons, Binyeo and flowers on their hair.
Abstract
The following shows the results of comparing and analyzing the “Jagyeongjeon jinchan-do” found in 1829 Gichukjinchan-dobyeong and “Jinchan-uigwe, including the findings of the position and role of Chabi who attended to the royal banquet and its styllistic structure. First, Mostly Yeogwans were responsible for serving King Sunjo, the wife of crown prince and Naebins(honored women guests) who had seat within Jagyeongjeon. Both Yeogwans and Yeoryeongs were responsible for serving the crown prince as he had seat in the garden. Yeoryeongs were responsible for serving Oebins(honored men guests) who had seat outside of the Jagyeongjeon. Second, there were many kinds of Chabi, but a Chabi would often take on multiple roles. As such, the actual number of Chabi who took part was low. King Sunjo had the most numerous Chabi, and Naebins had the second most numerous Chabi. Third, Chabi wearing black Wonsam were all Yeogwan who would either oversee the banquet within Jagyeongjeon or stone steps, or directly attend to the king. They would decorate a artificial Samjihwa in their Eoyeomeori, put a blue belt with black Wonsam, and wear red Onhye. They would wear two different skirts: blue skirt inside and a long blue unlined skirt on the outside. Fourth, Chabi wearing green Wonsam were all Yeogwan serving the king, crown prince, the wife of crown prince and Naebin within the court, stone steps and bamboo blinds. They would decorate a artificial Samjihwa in their Eoyeomeori, put a blue belt with green Wonsam, and wear red Onhye. They would wear a blue skirt inside and a long red unlined skirt on the outside. Fifth, the Chabi wearing green Dangui were Yeoryeong, categorized into three kinds by their outer skirt. The Yeoryeong holding ceremonial weaponry outside of the Jagyeongjeon would wear Garima, a artificial red peach blossom, green Dangui, blue skirt, Heukhye, and white sleeve attachments. The Yeoryeong placed in the garden of Jagyeongjeon would wear Garima, a artificial peony blossom, green Dangui, blue skirt, short red skirt, Heukhye and white sleeve attachments. The Jibsa and Holgi Yeoryeong would wear Garima, a artificial peony blossom, green Dangui, blue skirt, short red skirt, Heukhye, and white sleeve attachments. Sixth, Hyang-kkoji Chabi would wear green shirt with short and narrow sleeves and short red skirt and put on a belt. They would also decorate with hair ribbons, Binyeo and flowers on their hair.
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