이익의 『성호전집(星湖全集)』에 나타난 방령심의 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to investigate the Bangryeong-Simui system recorded in Simui-byeon (深衣辨) of ‘Japjeo (雜著)’ in volume 43 of 『Seonghojeonjib』 by Lee Ik, a pioneer of Silhak. Unlike the previous Bangryeong-Simui, which reflects Lee Ik's Silhak philosophy of clothing, was the first Bangryeong-Simuifitted with a Seopmeasuring 1chuck(尺) and 2chon(寸) in width and length. In addition, two panels of a skirt were connected to the Seop and the bodice sloper, which is 1chuck and 2chon in width. If this Bangryeong-Simui is worn in an overlap style, it will be the first Bangryeong-Simui to form a structure in which the front bodice of the three right and left panels and the back bodice overlap entirely. The sleeves are Duri sleeves, a first for Bangryeong-Simui, with the width of the bodice being 1chuck and 2chon. The armhole is 1chuck and 2chon wide, the sleeves are 2chuck and 4chon wide, and the cuffs are 1chuck and 2chon wide. The sleeves gradually become rounder toward the cuffs, and the Daedae(大帶) is allowed for its comfortable wrapping. It is also the first Bangryeong-Simui to use a knotted button and Goruem together as a fastening device. The structure of Bangryeong-Simui presented by Lee Ik occupied a very important position in the transformation process of Bangryeong-Simui and was inherited and developed along with Jigryeong-Simui until the early 20th century, when it was worn as a symbol of the will to overcome the national crisis caused by foreign powers, as well as a symbol of Wijeongcheoksa and the spirit of resistance against Japan. The significance of this study is that it conducts empirical research on the dimensions and flat sketches required for production, the cutting dimensions and cutting methods, and the sewing process, as well as theoretical research on Lee Ik's Bangryeong-Simui. The results of this study are expected to be useful in the field of archaeological and restoration studies of traditional dress.