조선시대 방령의(方領衣)에 관한 연구

Abstract

The oldest record on Bangryeong is the Chinese character “Bang (方)” found in excavated Okin and Dongin articles in the Zhou Dynasty period and in records on collars described in Simui in Yegi (禮記), and it indicates that Bangryeong is a time-honored collar style. However, few records or evidentiary excavation and painting data were found, showing the limitations in research on Bangryeong. Bangryeong was mostly discussed in connection with Simui Gokgeop initiated by His Chu in the period of the Sung Dynasty. In terms of the material on excavation and painting, Bangryeong had been hardly mentioned from the Han Dynasty to the Yuan Dynasty before being dealt with in the Ming Dynasty. The oldest historical document to mention Bangryeong found in Korea is Gungsa written by Gwang-pil Jang in the period of the Goryeo Dynasty. Bibliographic data originating from the Joseon Dynasty was mostly confined to disputes on Simui Gokgeop, and it is hard to find any other related records, so it is difficult to assume the shape through bibliographic research. But luckily, it is possible to assume the shape of Bangryeong and its wearer’s status based on Gukjo Oreui, Akhakguebeom and excavated costumes. A total of 34 excavated pieces with the Bangryeong collar were unearthed in 24 tombs. This is a much smaller number of pieces than others, which presents limitations in terms of research, but the variety of costume dramatically changed before and after the Japanese Invasion in 1592. Bangryeongui has a unique form that is unprecedented in existing jackets, and it is an over-garment that offers elegance and convenience and a multi-functional inner jacket worn over a suit of armor during war. However, it is impossible to find such a costume among pieces excavated after the Japanese Invasion. Bangryeongui obviously accentuates the formative characteristics and the beauty of symmetry and is cited as one of stylish, refined and practical styles worn by noblemen in the period of the Joseon Dynasty. In this regard, it is deemed necessary to conduct studies on Bangryeong on an ongoing basis in the future.