18세기 당의의 형태적 특징과 사회적 논의

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the historical significance of the 18th-century Dangeui through exploring the changes in the constructions and roles revealed in a collection of works of Confucian and in the Excavated Dangeui of the Chosun Dynasty. Among ladies’ ritual clothes, the 18th-century Dangeui was secondary ceremonial clothing replacing Wonsam in a rite of passage such as a coming-of-age ceremony(冠禮, Quinceanera), a wedding ceremony(昏禮), and a funeral(殮襲衣) but it was a main ceremonial clothing in the daily ritual such as daily lives and memorial services(祭禮). Dangeui was a ceremonial dress which most women could wear regardless of one’s own identity(from the Royal to Concubine and Remarriage bride)or age(to child). Side-slits are the constructional characteristic of Dangeui. These side-slits are a symbolic configuration of Baeja(vest) which is one of Chinese largest ritual dresses. Through the remains, we can observe two changes in the 18th-Dangeui; one is the disappearance of the curve gussets from the 16th-Jegori with side-slits, the other is the enlarged proportions of the side-slits in the 16th-Jergori. With such changes the construction of Baeja style was embodied in the 18th-century Dangeui. it means that the 18th-century Dangeui was equipped with configurations as a ceremonial dress through the change of the construction of the Jergori style into that of the Baeja style. The role enlargement of Dangeui originated from the style in which women’s daily clothing of the late Chosun Dynasty had changed into shorter Jergori and longer skirts. Such a style was off the balance in halves and called Bokyo. The style was not welcomed because it was regarded as the symbol of the disaster. The appearance of Dangeui as a ceremonial dress may be an alternative for avoiding the disaster, accommodating the Bokyo style as a contemporary trend.