「아구라나베(安愚楽鍋)」를 통해 본 식문화 연구 ―메이지 초기 규나베(牛鍋)를 중심으로－

Abstract

After the Meiji Restoration, Japanese society underwent a rapid period of change, and "Aguranabe" is regarded as a work of "Gesaku," which methodically shows the emergecne of the common people under the topic of Gyunabe, a symbol of civilization and enlightenment. Through a plebeian character who previously felt resistance merely by hearing the word beef but came to frequently visits meat-selling shops, this work introduces the story of how people came to eat beef in their daily lives after modernization. The idea of Western culture being actively adopted may be seen when one considers that the first and second volumes of "Aguranabe" were written in 1871 and the first volume was published in 1874. It was proven, however, that pre-modern features such as furnishings, attire, and meal preparation with food on the tatami floor still existed. It has been debated whether there is a disconnect or continuity or eclecticism in Japanese diet in studies concerning meat-eating culture. In short, it was a time of rapid modernization and civilization, but by highlighting the eclecticism of adopting the pre-modern style of eating Gyunabe while seated on the floor, it was presented as a sort of symbolic sign of "Beef (Gyunabe)=Westernization." As a Gesaku work, "Aguranabe" plainly has limits as a subject of this study because social criticism and satire were rarely included. However, looking into the singular setting of the Gyunabe store after civilization and enlightenment, one may catch a striking sight of the lower class's meat-eating culture.