『料理物語』를 통해 본 일본 식문화 연구-육식과 게가레 관념을 중심으로-

Abstract

Meat is a familiar ingredient in the Japanese diet, and can be easily consumed at any time. Many history studies, however, have found time and again that it had been a taboo for a long time. Ever since a ban on meat diet was issued, the equation of "meat=squalid=lowest class" had been increasingly prevalent for many years. The taboo or negative image of meat-eating was temporarily broken only when people began to suffer extreme famine. In short, even the strongest political power found it hard to influence the dietary habits of the people when it was a choice of life and death. Even in the Edo period, when the taboo against meat-eating remained strong, there were still many records of eating meat. The specific eating habits can be confirmed through ‘Ryorimonogatari(A Story of Cooking),’ the oldest remaining recipe book in the Edo period. In “Ryorimonogatari", meat ingredients are mainly from wild birds such as cranes, swans, geese, ducks, pheasants, gallinules, plovers, egrets, blue egrets, quails, larks, pigeons, snipes, white eyed crakes, waterrails, sparrows, and wild animals such as deer, raccoons, wild boars, rabbits, otters, bears and dogs. In addition, it has a great historical significance because it is completely departed from the formalism that emphasizes medieval rituals and manners, and presentes recipes that can be easily understood and followed by the general public. In this regard, it is suggested that the consciousness of avoiding meat weakened somewhat than the previous era. Therefore, this study first examines what the taboo was for Japanese people at the time, and then considers how the notions of meat-eating and ​​meat were brought to attention through ‘Ryorimonogatari’ at that time. Lastly, “Ryorimonogatari” helps us carefully define the significance of meat eating in the modern era.