동아시아 관복 제도와 근세 조일의 자의식ㆍ상호인식 - 조선의 문명교화론과 일본의 문명자립론 -

Abstract

In Confucian cultural regions, clothes were understood as an expression of courtesy that distinguished the upper and lower classes. In that sense, clothes represented Chinese clothes defined as the gown of the late king, which symbolized other civilization than that of the barbarians. Hanseo(漢書) and Sagi(史記) show that clothes in those times were already established as a tool unfolding the civilization theory as the political ideology based on Sino-centrism. 'Clothing culture', the phrase often used to symbolize Confucian civilization, well implies the civilizational and political features of Confucianism itself. This study tried to grasp the self-awareness and mutual perception of Japan and Joseon by examining how the daily action of 'putting on' or 'wearing' were woven into an ideology under the order system of East Asia based on Confucianism in modern society. After its foundation, Joseon introduced and legalized the official uniform system of the Ming dynasty. Along the way, official uniforms became deeply internalized as a Confucian civilization supported by the Sino-Barbarian concept. After the collapse of the Ming dynasty, when the notion that Joseon inherited the culture of China strengthened in Joseon, the nation's official uniforms served as a symbol that made people realize that Joseon was the center of the world. Based on this, Joseon's official uniforms performed the mission to enlighten 'uncivilized' Japan in its relationship with Japan reestablished after two Japanese invasions of Korea. Japanese people including Arai Hakuseki(新井白石) and Amenomori Hoshu(雨森芳州), however, saw Joseon's official uniforms, a symbol of civilization, from the hegemonic viewpoint. For them, Joseon's official uniforms were nothing more than a symbol of subordination far from being a symbol of civilization. The contrasting views of Joseon and Japan on Joseon's official uniforms that inherited that of the Ming dynasty are seen as a reflection of the confusing order of East Asia after the Qing's replacement of the Ming dynasty.