신의 착용문화와 복식미적 고찰－상징성을 중심으로－

Abstract

This study aims to find the origin of Korean shoes, the kinds of shoes and the form from the main subject on shoes that is the part of dress and its ornament, to understand its wearing culture on the view of dress and its ornament aesthetically through transition era, and to study the symbolic what shoes has. With this thesis, considered which the structure of shoes had influenced on wearing and ambulatory culture of an ancestor and expect to be a opportunity to understand how it could express symbolically recognition involved by shoes. Shoes is not only wearing but also aesthetically expression to put a period to complete dress and its ornament beyond the function. The shoes of Korean coexisted both ‘Hwa(like boots)(靴)(it had a long neck and was easy to protect against the cold and humidity, noble people used) in nomadic horse culture of the north and' Hye(鞋)․Yi(履)(like normal shoes)(it had a short neck, the common people used) in farming culture of the south. It represented that they wore together the both of shoes that has a long neck of shoes and a short neck through the Mural Painting of the Goguryeo Ancient Tombs and various literatures. Etymology of the word 'Sin' what we call originated from phonetic representation of 'Sin' that the boots(靴) was recorded with 'Sun'(洗.) After, shoes was made with various materials and forms over from Three Kingdoms of Korea, the Koryo Dynasty and the Joseon Dynasty and worn with various names. Shoes of Korean had nature of the structure that was various materials and a low hedge. The shoes had a keen well－shaped that goes up from a low hedge to the heel, it couldn't be took off if one had to walk turning one's toes out when wearing, so then it was connected with particular ambulatory culture naturally. In the view of wearing culture, it was not bound because it is not been set with left and right, and had some space to make left and right with foot pocket. Furthermore, it had practicality to use for longtime when one wore away equally wore to change. Also, it has been developing to show a social position, to meet the other function of aesthetic sense. Combination of colors on shoes has made strong and clear Korean style tone in this present. It was found the symbolic of sacrifice on shoes while a pair of shoes was excavated with an appeal letter that was made in 16th century. Hemp shoes that were made with her hair and hemp stalk showed a symbol of a wife's love through psychokinesis of shoes. The shoes that became brilliant in the Joseon Dynasty presented exceptionally beautiful dress and its ornament aesthetic though was a shoes for feet which used for walking on the earth enough to think that was inactivity not for walking but for getting on, and was recognized to imagine unknown world as liberty. With the result of this study, I think that it needs to consider looking back whether wearing culture of which the shoes of the past had different meanings has been passed rightly and been acceded to traditional shoes in this present.