미용학적 관점에서 본 조선시대 가체 문화사

Abstract

The high-held and richly decorated hair style with Dari (月子) was popular once in the Chosun Dynasty. The backgrounds include the reflection of an idea of respecting the head (尊頭思想) which is faced to the sky. Second, Dari is a type of wig made of hairs of one's own or others. Considering the past when they did not cut hair, it must have been a very expensive item. Using these rare materials enabled the users to represent their wealth and special social positions. Terminologies in hair style invite confusion as can be seen from Bal (髮), Che (髢), Gye (髻), Gache (加髢), and Gagye (假髻). Literature review reveals slight differences among them. Bal (髮) refers to hair on the head while Che (髢) is a bunch of hair in the form of wig, which has been accumulated by placing over original hairs. Gye (髻) tends to refer to a completed hair type. Hence, Gache (加髢) refers to a form made by adding and connecting Dari (髢) to original hairs and Gagye (假髻) is a form using cloth, wood, hair ornaments, and steel wires instead of expensive hair. As for the manufacturing process of Gache, firstly, hairs were collected from prisoners, monks, and poor people. They were dyed in the same color and made into Dari by using wax candles. They were used by women as braids. On special days, Sumo (手母, hair artist) decorated them. For the Royal family members, when hairs were collected by the relevant authorities, Chebaljang and Wolnaejang made Gache. Daehan jeguk (Daehan Empire) employed palace matrons specializing in doing hair of the Queen. Palace eunuchs who trimmed and adorned hair in the palace were provided with the official grade of Jeong 7 Poom Jeonshik (典飾) and Jeong 6 Poom Saeui (司衣). Gache, manufactured after this complex process, was dealt in special shops such as Chegyejeon (髢髻廛) of Gyeongsung Market in the late Chosun Dynasty or female brokers (女儈) visited households to sell them directly to consumers. Or it was placed for rental at stores. This study aimed to newly approach the cultural history of Gache which has been neglected in the previous studies with their focus on the external styles only. While the insufficient materials may have produced a certain limit in this study, that the relevant studies have been rare means that we still need to study this area, which remains as a future task.