고구려복식에 표현된 고유성과 자주성에 관한 소고

Abstract

Existing studies have found that Goguryeo people, both men and women, wore long-sleeved jeogori (inner jacket) and pants and that women wore skirts over the pants depending on the occasion. This basic style of costume was also used as an official uniform. For example, flag-bearers of Anak Tomb No.3 were categorized into two groups by costume; one in po(袍, coats worn over the jackets and skirts), the other in pants and jeogori; and those in pants and jeogori also wore gilt-bronze belts. The gilt bronze belt seemed to indicate the rank of the government official. Depending on the occasion, women wore long skirts over the pants; and generally these skirts had pencil pleats from the waist to the hem. This style of creating pleats is different from that of Chinese skirts, which had gathers only at the waist. Foreign costumes described in mural paintings in Goguryeo are po 袍 that came from China. Particularly, the red po 袍 worn by tomb hosts and government officials can be found in paintings or artworks created in China from the Later Han dynasty until the Wei, Chin and the South and North dynasties. This kind of ceremonial robe is one of the official uniforms of the Wei, Chin and the South and North dynasties, often regarded as originating from the red ceremonial robes for military officers of the Han dynasty. It was sometimes considered as having to do with the red po found in Goguryeo mural paintings as well. When we consider that headgear was the most important element of the official outfit in the Chinese ceremonial costumes tradition, it seems that bangna-gwan 白羅冠, cheongna-gwan 靑羅冠 and ora-gwan 烏羅冠 were recorded in the literature possibly because all three were not part of the Chinese ceremonial costumes system. However, it is doubtful whether an original costume system could be maintained intact regardless of time and space when we consider the conditions of the times; costumes were used in a variety of cultural and ethnic backgrounds of different dynasties over the course of time; and costumes and cultural exchanges and fusion between the Han Chinese and other peoples were the most notable characteristics of the time. Therefore, although the physical features of the costumes might look similar, it is possible that costumes actually changed in accordance with the recipient peoples’costumes, culture and the customs of the time.