함종어씨(1764∼1834) 묘 출토복식 연구

Abstract

This study examined 48 pieces of clothes artifacts excavated from the tombs of the Hamjong Eo clan and compared them to artifacts found in other women's tombs from the same period. The results are as follows. First, 48 relics were excavated from the Hamjong Eo clan, including 14 pieces of shroud, six pieces of soryeom, five pieces of daeryeom, eight pieces of bogong, nine pieces of yeomseupjegu, and six pieces of chigwanjegu. Second, the clothes were single-layered, with no cotton or quilts. Types of clothes include wonsam, short ears, jeogori, skirts, pants, and chune. Third, the dangui's git attachment method evolved into simultaneous seaming the outer and lining fabrics, while the sleeves' inseam was constructed by stitching all four layers of the outer and inner fabrics together. Fourth, the jeogori for the shroud was constructed to be larger and more voluminous. In contrast, the daily jeogori was shorter and more fitted, aligning with the prevailing fashion of the 19th century. The size discrepancy between the two jeogori types indicates that a specialized shroud was created. Fifth, the length and width of the skirts worn for shroud purposes were not more expansive than those worn daily, and the skirts worn typically were similar in length and width to those of the Cheongyeongunju tomb. Sixth, the excavated chune artifacts associated with Shin Kwangheon's tomb are of particular significance given their second excavation. Finally, most non-patterned fabrics include mumundan, silk, gauze, three-strand hangla, and hemp. Patterned fabrics include unbomundan, sagunjabingryeolmundan, and doryubulsumundan. The discovery of the sagunjabingryeolmun is especially noteworthy, as it was first found in excavated artifacts.