김이교(1764∼1832) 묘 출토 조복 연구

Abstract

This study examines the jo-bok(government official’s ceremonial costume) excavated from Kim I-Gyo(1764∼1832) tomb from Yesan-gun, Chungcheongnam-do. The purpose of the study is to report new excavated relics of the jo-bok, and to reveal the manufacturing method and periodical characteristics of the Kim I-Gyo's jo-bok. First, an investigation and analysis of the clothing construction, fabric composition,, and weaving characteristics were made. Next, Kim I-Gyo's jo-bok characteristics are determined by comparing them with those of the mid-17th and mid-19th centuries. Kim I-Gyo's jo-bok consists of a red outer robe, inner robe, ceremonial skirt, and back drapery. Fabrics used for jo-bok are three-end leno weave, thin silk tabby, satin, and silk tabby. The embroidery technique of back drapery is satin stitch, straight stitch, long and short stitch, outline stitch, knot stitch, padded stitch. Compared to the characteristics of artifacts from the same period, Kim I-Gyo's jo-bok has typical characteristics of the 18th-century jo-bok and a transitional pattern of change. Kim I-Gyo's robes are the only existing excavated artifacts that include inner robes and are notable for using three-end leno weave and thin silk as their main fabrics. In addition, Kim I-Gyo’s jo-bok is expected to be used in various research fields as literature, artifacts, and painting related to one person remain.