전남 나주출토 제주양씨(1589~1687) 출토복식의 형태적 특징과 바느질법

Abstract

Most of excavated costumes from 17th century are Chegori(jacket), Jangot(coat), Chima(skirt), and Pajee(pants). There are Joongchimak and Changeui for purpose of filling the coffin. These excavated costumes also contain several Jangot as other excavated costumes from 17th century. However, the unusual thing is there are five Joongchimak which rarely excavated from other grave. Among the unlined, layered, and padded Chegori, the number of padded Chegori were the most numerous. Dangkokit was used for collar of Chegori. Diagonal inseam of sleeve and cuff were used for the sleeve. Only long Chegoris have side vents while others do not have it. Most of them have no gussets. They all follow the Chegori style of the middle of 17th century. Compared to other excavated costumes, Chegori’s color, pattern, and material do not contain wide variety. There are Joongchimak and Jangot for Po. Five Joongchimaks which are unlined, padded, and cotton-stuffed quilting are excavated. For Joongchimak, kalkit was used for outer collar and Mokpankit was used for inner collar. For the sleeve, straight sleeves and diagonal sleeves were used and straight bodice was used for all the bodice. Side vent which is a chracteristic of Joongchimak is shown and the sleeve does not have cuffs. Also, partially destroyed Joongchimak and Joongchimak with cutted sleeves are excavated. It might happen since the size of cotton clothes is large or might be a custom of funeral. For the gussets, triangle gusset and trapezoid gusset with side gusset were used. The length of Joongchimak varied from 110 cm to 131 cm. Diagonal sleeve has a big difference between armhole and edges of sleeve while straight sleeve does not. Layered, padded, and cotton-stuffed quilting Jangot were excavated. Mokpankit was used for collars. Sleeve has both Tae-soo(태수형) and cuff(끝동형) and trapezoid gussets and side gussets were both attached to it. Outer Sub and inner sub are all double sub Broad stitching was used for sewing method. Needlework of unlined costumes is more elaborate than layered and padded costumes while direction of a margin to seam and processing a seam are similar. For the unlined costumes, felled seam and flat felled seam were used for Berea and side line. Some Deungsol of unlined and layered costumes sewed as seamless and shoulder was made of one fabric so it does not have a seam. For the padded costumes, Deungsol are all connected and direction margin to seam is right. decorative saddle stitching was used for collar’s head to fix cottons.