신맛, 매운맛, 그리고 날것: 윈난 성의 다이1 음식 변천의 역사적 고찰
Sour, Spicy and Raw: A Historical Review of Dai Food Transformation in Yunnan
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다이 음식은 중국 윈난 성 다이 족 사회의 현대화 과정에서 극적인 변화를 겪고 있다. 이 변화 과정에 대하여 식습관은 개인적인 선택의 소산인 것처럼 보이지만, 정치경제적 상황에 근거하여 해석되어야 한다. 본 민속지학적 연구는 이런 변화의역사적 자취를 탐구하고, 주변화된(비문명적) 소수민족을 ‘국가건설’ 과정에 통합하고자 다방면으로 노력하는 중국의 정치적 맥락과 동남아시아 국가들과의 교류 가운데에서 사회문화적 의의를 찾아내고자 하였다. 다이 음식의 의미있는 변화를가져온 역사적인 두 시기는 다음과 같다. ① ‘민주적 개혁’, ‘인민 공사’, ‘지식청년상산하향운동(知識靑年上山下鄕運動)’, 즉하방운동 등의 정치적 켐패인을 수반한 중국 사회주의 건설 기간으로서 고무나무 농장 개발을 동시에 진행한 이 시기는다이공동체 생활에는 제한된 영향밖에 주지 않았다. ② 중국인민공화국의 ‘변방지역 번영’, ‘소수민족 개발 지원’ 등 경제개혁 이후의 전국적 캠페인 등이다. 두 시기 모두 다이 족이 한족과 동남아시아 민족과의 강력한 교류를 경험하면서 음식문화에 지대한 영향을 미쳤다. 하지만 지난 10년에서 20년 사이에 시장 개방과 이주로 인하여 그 어느 때보다 극적인 변화가있었다. 농경 양식의 변화로 인한 다이 음식의 원천 감소, 대도시(쿤밍, 상하이, 베이징 등)에 우후죽순으로 생겨난 다이 음식 식당으로 인한 수요의 증가, 다양한 고객의 입맛에 맞춰진 요리 방법의 변화, (다이 족이 사용해온) 천연식물이 아닌 합성 조미료의 사용, 종교적 행사의 증가로 풍족한 잔치 참여 기회의 확대, 다이 족 남성의 알코올 섭취 증가 등이다. 이는 다이 족 전통 레시피의 변화로 이어졌으며 곧 다이 족의 건강에도 큰 영향을 주어 전통적으로 ‘날씬한 체형’으로 알려진 다이족에게서 비만이 흔해졌다. 결론적으로 다이 식문화의 변화는 복잡한 현대화 과정의 필수불가결한 요소가 되었고, 다양한정치적·경제적·문화적 요소를 함축하고 있다.
Abstract
Dai food is experiencing a dramatic change in the modernization processtaking place in the Dai communities in Yunnan Province, China. Theinterpretation of this changing process has to be done with reference to thepolitical economic circumstances although diet seems to be determinedby personal choice. This ethnographic study is intended to explore thehistorical traces of such change and its socio-cultural significance amongthe Dai communities in the context of China’s many endeavors to integratethese “marginalized (or uncivilized) people” into “the nation building” process,and also in the context of the interaction between Yunnan and the Southand Southeast Asian nations. Two historical periods highlight the mostsignificant changes of Dai food system: 1) China’s socialist constructionin which the political campaigns such as “democratic reform”, “People’sCommune” and “zhishi qingnian shangshan xiaxiang” (the movement ofeducated youth going to work in the countryside or mountain areas) with the plantationof rubber trees had limited impact on the Dai community life; 2) the timeof PRC’s national campaigns of “borderland prosperity” and “assistingthe development of ethnic minorities” following China’s EconomicReform. Both periods have resulted in intensive interaction between theDai communities and the Chinese Han or the people from South andSoutheast Asian peoples. These events had significant impact on the Dai food customs. None of these, however, is not as dramatic as what has beenhappening in the last 10 to 20 years under the impact of marketization andpopulation migration. They include the diminishment of sources of Daifood owing to the change of agricultural practices and increased popularityof Dai food due to the rampant increase of Dai restaurants in big cities(such as Kunming, Beijing, and Shanghai). Other factors include cooking methodsthat have been amended to cater to various peoples, some ingredientsare chemically synthesized rather than being derived from plants accordingto the traditional ways of the Dai people. Furthermore, more religiousactivities provide chances for people to participate in rich banquets morefrequently and there has been more alcohol drinking among the Dai,particularly men. These result in changes of the Dai traditional recipes thathave significant impact on the Dai people’s health. Obesity is becominga common phenomenon among the Dai people who were traditionallyknown for their slim figures. This essay concludes that the change of Daifood system is an integral part of the complex modernization processwhich involves a vast number of political, economic and cultural factors.
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