1980년대 이후 대만 음식(cuisine)의 형성: 민난(閩南)과 학카(客家) 음식의 대두

Abstract

The emergence of Taiwanese cuisine has much to do with thedemocratization process and the growth of Taiwan national identity sincethe 1980s. In one way, the making of Taiwanese cuisine can be seen asthe liberalization of two major ethnic foods, Mainan and Hakka, fromthe dominance of Mainland China’s provincial food customs such as thatof Jiang-Zhe, Szechuan, and Guandong. The two ethnic Han food ofMinnan and Hakka have thus been ungraded to constitute the new corecomponents of the rising Taiwan’s national cuisine. It is equally importantto note that, however, the non-Han aborigine food has not been consideredas an integral part of Taiwanese cuisine. This paper intends to argue that the rise of Taiwanese cuisine is thedirect social product of the above political transformation and culturalchange. The Minnan and Hakka ethnic foods have since then been rapidlycommercialized to become the recognized “cuisine” popularly served inrestaurants beyond household consumption. The rise of “cuisinization” aswell as “popularization” of ethnic Mainnan and Hakka foods will then bediscussed in this paper by identifying the main features and changes ofeach of the ethnic food. Special attention is also paid to how Minnan andHakka food are being “presented,” “positioned” and “weighted” in theconstitution of “Taiwanese national cuisine.”Finally, in the conclusion, the interplay of democracy, ethnicity and national identity and its impact onTaiwan’s contemporary foodscape will be highlighted.