일본의 중세 가마쿠라․무로마치 시대의 염직과 복식

Abstract

This study investigates textile and costume culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age includes Kamakura period(1185-1333) and Muromachi period(1336-1573). Late 12th century, the power center of the caste stated to move from Kuge(nobles) to Buke(samurais). Clothing changed, moving from the extremely fancy clothing of the Heian period into a much simpler form. The kimono was no longer worn by those of the samurai class. The women of the samurai class adopted the simple white kosode of the Juni-hitoe as the principal outer garment, thus changing it from an undergarment to an actual outerwear garment. The sleeves were also partially sewed up. The formal outer garment was reserved only for use on special occasions. During Muromachi period, the aristocratic culture of the Heian period decayed and the Samurai gained power. Clothes were modified to be simpler and easier to move around in to fit the more active lifestyle of the samurai. They basically wear light clothes except for when they have to wear in formal armored style. Men of the samurai class, wore a decorated brocade version of the hitatare worn by the peasants of the Heian period. Even when making an ostentatious display of impracticality with the highest levels of formal wear, the samurai aesthetic demanded a way to make the impractical practical. Women of this new ruling class took up a version of the courtly formal wear of their predecessors, as a way of displaying their education and refinement, but wore fewer layers as a sign of their frugality and practical-minded nature.