일본 헤이안（平安)말․가마쿠라(鎌倉)시대 무가(武家)복식과 문화

Abstract

This study focusing on the costumes of Buke in the era of Kamakura, which was the end of the Heian era, ac well as the relevance to the costumes of Kouge at the same time. The men's costumes of Buke consisted of Sokdae, Jiksu, Sugan and Sueui. The root of these costumes was based on the fact that Buke were arisen from ordinary people who preferred clothes that were convenient and efficient for working. As the power of Buke increased, they were intorduced to Sokdae, which was the best dress suited of Kouge as well as Sukan and Sueui, which were the clothing for subordinates. When costumes of Kouge were acquired by Buke, not only did they wear it to show their authority, but also wore it stressing upon activity and function as well. These costumes connoting authority and function were able to show aristocratic characteristics that also considered authority as important. They also combined features, exclusively for Buke, for function. When the Kouge's costume was introduced, Buke did not wear it as it was, but they made varied adjustments to the material, the form, and the way they put it on. These newly adjusted features were more suitable for Buke, or they made their costumes simplify to accommodate the convenience of their activities. And so, the costumes of Buke presented a phenomenon that the clothing for ordinary people, which were basic costumes of Buke, assimilated with the costumes of Kouge. In addition, the introduction of the costumes of Kouge for Buke became a representation of the Buke' ascendance in their social standing and was coexistent at the same time.