일본 지배계층 복식의 변화와 양상
The aspects and the change in clothes of the ruling class in Japan
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The purpose of this study is to investigate the aspects and the change in and the characteristics of court dress of the ruling class women of the Nara-Heian period of Japan by comparing the clothes of the ruling class of the early Nara-Heian period to those of the middle and late Heian period. In the early Nara-Heian period, the types of clothes included Ungeon, Baeja, Dae-Soo-Eui, Joong-Dan, Nae-Eui, Goon-Seub, Pye-Seul, Bi-Dae, and Young-Gun. Bo-Gye was put on the head and Mal and Seok were worn on foot. On the other hand, in the middle and late Heian period, the clothes such as Dang-Eui, Pyo-Chak, Ta-Eui, Gyu, Dan, Sang, Go, Bi-Rye, and Gun-Dae were put on. Bo-Gwan was put on the head and Mal and Seok were worn on foot. The comparison of the clothes of the two periods showed that the Chinese-style clothes in the early period had changed to Japanized clothes in the middle and late Heian period. The simple composition of the Japanese-style clothes led to invent a new ways of wearing clothes layering another clothes over clothes. While there were changes in the name and composition of Baeja and Dang-Eui, Bi-Dae and Gun-Dae, and Young-Gun and Bi-Rye, the purposes of wearing those clothes were not been changed. This change in the composition of clothes made the clothes in the middle and late Heian period to be more decorative and massive as well as more varied in colors compared to the clothes in the early Nara-Heian period. It can be noted that this change is highly related with the composition of the clothes and ways of wearing the clothes.
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to investigate the aspects and the change in and the characteristics of court dress of the ruling class women of the Nara-Heian period of Japan by comparing the clothes of the ruling class of the early Nara-Heian period to those of the middle and late Heian period. In the early Nara-Heian period, the types of clothes included Ungeon, Baeja, Dae-Soo-Eui, Joong-Dan, Nae-Eui, Goon-Seub, Pye-Seul, Bi-Dae, and Young-Gun. Bo-Gye was put on the head and Mal and Seok were worn on foot. On the other hand, in the middle and late Heian period, the clothes such as Dang-Eui, Pyo-Chak, Ta-Eui, Gyu, Dan, Sang, Go, Bi-Rye, and Gun-Dae were put on. Bo-Gwan was put on the head and Mal and Seok were worn on foot. The comparison of the clothes of the two periods showed that the Chinese-style clothes in the early period had changed to Japanized clothes in the middle and late Heian period. The simple composition of the Japanese-style clothes led to invent a new ways of wearing clothes layering another clothes over clothes. While there were changes in the name and composition of Baeja and Dang-Eui, Bi-Dae and Gun-Dae, and Young-Gun and Bi-Rye, the purposes of wearing those clothes were not been changed. This change in the composition of clothes made the clothes in the middle and late Heian period to be more decorative and massive as well as more varied in colors compared to the clothes in the early Nara-Heian period. It can be noted that this change is highly related with the composition of the clothes and ways of wearing the clothes.
참고문헌 (25)
- "길상천녀상(吉祥天女像)의 명칭은 학자에 따라 길상천화상(吉祥天畵像)이라고도 불리어지나, 본 연구에서는 통상적으로 명명되는 길상천녀상의 명칭을 사용하기로 한다", ~
- "길상천녀상의 복식이 나라시대 여자예복이라 주장하는 関根真隆(関根真隆(1974), 奈良朝服飾の硏究(圖錄編), 東京: 吉川弘文館, p.17.), 高田倭男(高田倭男(1995.4), 服裝の歷史, 東京: 中央公論社, p. 56)의 이론을 근거로 제시한다)", ~ (1974)
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