『尙方定例』의 편찬 과정과 특징 - 왕실복식의 用節을 중심으로

Abstract

Sangbang Jeongrye is the book defining every object for royal families and it is divided into regular rite and the special rite. The term Sangbang is different name of Sangeuiwon(尙衣院). Sanguiwon is the senior government office to manage and keep the clothes. It had held to collect and to make the materials on a number of royal birthday and a holiday. Whenever the supply was not enough, Sangeuiwon asked for the King. Then the king ordered the Hojo(戶曹) to trade materials. As Sangeuiwon has very strict requirements aimed at economizing, even the King couldn’t ordered extra materials unless there was a shortage. Though Sangbang Jeongrye is the important history to find the clothes structure and collect circumstances for the royal family in the late of Joseon Dynasty, there is few studies for it. This study tried to shed new light on the value of Sangbang Jeongrye through the meaning and characteristics of compiling Sangbang Jeongrye. First, Sangbang Jeongrye has been known that it compiled in the 1752(Yeongjo 28), but through the studies it's strongly assumed that it compiled between 1750 and 1751. Second, Sangbang Jeongrye is composed of regular and special rite. The regular rite contained object to offer clothes and important materials for annual royal birthday of each palace and a holiday. On the order of the King,Sangeuiwon made materials on an special rite. As there was emphasis in “economizing” on compiling Sangbang Jeongrye,the needed materials, suppliers and a way of keeping along with the materials were all written down in detail. This was the necessary information and a solution to prevent wasting. Third, After compiling, changes were found that economizing was practically served. Before the compilation, the clothes used for the queen, Inwon of Sukjong, were made with the floral design silk from china. However in the case of the queen Jeongsun of Yeongjo, after the Sangbang Jeongrye, divided ritual clothes and casual wear were eliminated. On the other hand, the robe for the queen and the crown princess was managed and kept vigorously in Sangeuiwon. These were for the special events, so needed spending. Therefore, as there was significant difference depending on the way to keep, it means they understood the importance of the way of keeping.