궁중발기를 통해 본 왕실의 복식문화 -임오가례시(壬午嘉禮時) 생산체제를 중심으로-

Abstract

This study aims at examining a royal family’s costume culture through ‘the royal court Balgi’ which has been written a catalog of goods required by a Royal Family, such as the things and quantities that brought into a Royal Family in the late of Joseon Dynasty. Especially, it was tried to review Sang-euiwon(尙衣院) which was the production agency and Chimseonbi(針線婢) who was a maker focused on manufacturing system out of the study of a its dress, focused on the kinds of ‘Imohgaryesi(壬午嘉禮時)’ Balgi that was recorded the King Sunjong’s wedding ceremony in 1882 among approximately 950 Balgis which was housed in Jangseo-gak(藏書閣)library for researching more formally and specifically a royal family’s costume culture. For this, this article was tried to study a royal family’s costume culture through the kinds of Balgi which has been recorded the role of Sang-euiwon and Chimseonbi, such as with which process a royal wedding could be executed, those who they would be called from Sang-euiwon for a wedding, what they could play a role, with which system Sang-euiwon and Chimseonbi could make a costume required by a royal family and which prize they could be given after the wedding. The result of this study is as follows:First, Sang-euiwon was a treasure house not only keeping money and valuables but also making clothes and belts, and Chimseonbi who belonged to there had made clothes and belts in according to the regulation. Second, Imohgarye is the prince’s wedding ceremony which was conducted in 1882. It was chosen the daughter of Min tae-ho by three chosen as a Wangsejabin. The number of people called for the customary formalities of a royal family were 2352, 430 craftsmen of them who belonged to Sang-euiwon, and 17 Chimseonbi. Third, this study has found through Sanggyeok Balgi(賞格發記) that a costume of the customary formalities of a royal family required during Imohgarye can be classified into a robe and clothes & belts of the crown prince and a crown princess, most robe and clothes & belts was made by Sang-euiwon as referring to the state of preparing it in a palace, the shoes which had to be provided a completed product was made by the Ministry of Finance. The fabrics which was used to embroidery or Pasul among a robe of a crown princess was made by directly knitting in Sang-euiwon, an underwear was made in a sawing room or a embroidering room. Fourth, Chimseonbi who produced directly the royal family’s costume can divide into Chimseonjang and Chimseonbi. There were two kinds of Chimseonbi, one was who goes to and come from, and another was who stays in palace. They were given a salary, but sometimes, being given a prize as a salary corresponding to a bonus after wedding. Also this paper was found that they could get a good salary as much as a work other than the defined salary by referring to what they could be given a wage depending on making clothes when they make s special costume such as a shroud.