물건들의 삶: 샤르댕의 정물화 속에 등장하는 음식과 18세기 프랑스의 음식문화
The Life of Things: Food in Chardin’s Still Life and Culinary Culture in Eighteenth-Century France
2
조회
0
다운로드
3
인용
0
참고문헌
키워드
초록
샤르댕(Jean Simeon Chardin, 1699-1779)은 18세기 프랑스 화단을 대표하는 화가 중 한 사람이다. 그는 오랫동안 프랑스 왕립미술원(Academie Royale)의 살림을 담당한 재무관(Treasurer)을 역임했을 뿐 아니라, 그의 소박한 정물화(still life)와 중산층의 실내정경을 담은 풍속화(genre painting)는 디드로(Denis Diderot) 등 당대 최고의 비평가들로부터 커다란 찬사를 받았다. 특히 초창기 샤르댕의 성공은 사물에 대한 치밀한 관찰에 기초한 그의 정물화에서 비롯되었는데, 이는 종교나 신화, 역사를 주제로 한 역사화(history painting)가 지배하던 당시 프랑스 화단의 상황을 고려해 볼 때 상당히 이례적인 현상이다. 데뷔 초기인 1720-30년대 샤르댕은 과일이나 야채, 생선이나 육류 등 일상 식생활의 기본이 되는 단순한 소재를 바탕으로 일련의 정물화를 제작하였고, 이후 1740년대에는 풍속화 제작에 집중하다가 다시 1750-60년대에는 정물화에 집중하는 경향을 보인다. 이들 작품 중 상당수는 샤르댕 본인이 여러 점의 복제화(replica)을 그린 것으로 미루어 보아 그의 정물화에 대한 수요가 적지 않았음을 알 수 있다. 그러나 흥미롭게도 20세 기 미술사학자들의 관심은 주로 샤르댕의 풍속화에 집중되었고, 그 결과 개별 정물화의 양식적 특징을 다룬 실증적 연구를 넘어선 샤르댕 정물화가 지닌 문화적 혹은 역사적 의미에 대한 해석은 대단히 드물었고, 더구나 그의 정물화를 구성하는 핵심 소재인 다양한 과일과 야채, 생선과 고기, 그리고 부엌도구 등 그림에 등장하는 음식 및 음식문화에 대한 관심과 연구는 거의 전무하였다. 그러나 여러 복제본이 만들어질 정도로 큰 인기를 누렸던 샤르댕의 정물화를 당대인들은 과연 심오한 ‘미술작품’으로 보았을까? 그렇지 않다면 샤르댕의 그림에 나타나는 음식과 음식재료는 어떤 의미를 함축할까? 필자는 이러한 문제의식을 바탕으로 18세기 프랑스 화가 샤르댕이 제작한 정물화와 이들 정물화 속에 등장하는 음식과 음식문화를 문화사와 인류학적 관점에서 해석해 보려 한다. 즉, 본고는 인간 생존에 필수적인 음식이라는 지극히 일상적인 주제가 18세기 프랑스의 한 작가의 작품을 통해 어떻게 재현되고 있는가를 탐구해 보려는 시도로서, 샤르댕의 정물화는 궁극적으로 조용하지만 내밀한 물건들의 삶을 포착해 내고 있다는 주장을 펼친다.
Abstract
Jean Simeon Chardin (1699-1779) is a major painter representative of French art in the eighteenth century. Holding the office of Treasurer at the French Royal Academy of Painting and Sculpture, he successfully managed the finances of the most prestigious art institution in France as well as producing a number of serene still life and genre paintings suitable for the interiors of emerging French middle and upper classes. During his life his paintings were not only sought after by European royalties and aristocrats but highly acclaimed by an army of laudatory critics including the doyen of French art criticism, Denis Diderot. His early success in particular was largely due to his humble still-life subjects based on close observations on natural and man- made objects. This smacked of the lacuna between academic theory and actual public preference, given the fact that still life had long been deemed the lowest of all genres in painting as it lacked the intellectual capacity and imagination required of history painting that was supposed to elevate human soul and morality by depicting scenes of religious, mythological, and historic subjects. In the midst of the vogue for history painting and portraiture, Chardin concentrated his talent and energy on capturing the transitory appearance of every-day things such as game animals, butchered meats, vegetables, fruits, and kitchen utensils. It is obvious that his still-life subjects were popular with his contemporaries and found ready buyers as evidenced by the presence of multiple replicas and slightly different versions of the same composition all signed by Chardin himself who has been known to have employed no assistants or pupils. Curiously enough, however, few attention has been paid to Chardin’s still life beyond curatorial interests while his genre paintings have been amply researched and a few have been put under meticulous scrutiny to provide students of art history with the basis of the most illuminating and ground-breaking interpretations the discipline can offer. In contrast, virtually no serious heed has been taken of the seemingly mundane but significant constituents of Chardin's most still life images—fruits, vegetables, meats, fishes, and kitchen wares. This paper purports to address this utterly overlooked dimension of Chardin's still life: food. By locating the ingredients of food and kitchen wares visible in Chardin’s pictures within the context of culinary culture and discourse in France in the eighteenth century, this paper seeks to offer an interpretation of Chardin’s still life from anthropological and cultural historical perspectives. In the final analysis, it is argued that what Chardin has eventually captured is fleeting glimpses of the stationary life of domestic things and they are indelibly portrayed in his masterly representations, regardless of the artist’s intention.
참고문헌 (63)
- Pierre Rosenberg, "Chardin: 1699-1779" (1979), Cleveland Museum of Art
- Pierre Rosenberg, "Chardin" (2000), Royal Academy of Arts and the Metropolitan Museum of Art
- Norman Bryson, "Chardin and the Text of Still-Life", Critical Inquiry, 15(2), pp.227~252 (1989)
- Annette Cozzi, "Composed Consumption: Picturing Nascent National Identity in Food Paintings", Food, Culture & Society, 16(4), pp.569~588 (2013)
- John Varriano, "Tastes and Temptations: Food and Art in Renaissance Italy" (2009), California University Press
- Georges Wildenstein, "Chardin : Catalogue Raisonné" (1969), Cassirer
- Heather McPherson, "Public Space of the Domestic Sphere", pp.42~ (1997), Mestengo Press
- Philip Conisbee, "Chardin" (1986), Phaidon
- John McCoubrey, "The Revival of Chardin in French Still-Life Painting, 1850-1870", Art Bulletin, 46(1), pp.39~53 (1964)
- Pierre Rosenberg, "Chardin", pp.168~ (2000), Prestel
- Thomas Crow, "Painters and Public Life in Eighteenth-Century Paris", pp.84~87 (1985), Yale University Press
- Elia Snoep-Reitsma, "Chardin and the Bourgeois Ideals of His Time", Nederlands Kunsthistorisch Jaarboek, 24(1), pp.148~162 (1973)
- Gabriel Weisberg, "Chardin and the Still-Life Tradition in France", pp.8~26 (1979), Cleveland Museum of Art
- Carol Clark, "Jean-Baptiste Simeon Chardin: Still Iife with Herring", The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art, 61(9), pp.313~317 (1974)
- 18)Colin Bailey, "Patriotic Taste: Collecting Modern Art in Pre-Revolutionary Paris", pp.36~51 (2002), Yale University Press
- Silvia Malaguzzi, "Food and Feasting in Art" (2008), J. Paul Getty Museum
- Kenneth Bendiner, "Food in Painting: From the Renaissance to the Present", pp.12~21 (2004), Reaktion Books
- Denis Diderot, "Diderot on Art I", pp.60~ (1995), Yale University Press
- Priscilla Ferguson, "Accounting for Taste: The Triumph of French Cuisine", pp.1~13 (2004), University of Chicago Press
- Rebecca Spang, "The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture", pp.7~11 (2000), Harvard University Press
- Annik Pardailhe-Galabrun, "The Birth of Intimacy: Privacy and Domestic Life in Early Modern Paris", pp.83~87 (1991), University of Pennsylvania Press
- Daniel Roche, "A History of Everyday Things: The Birth of Consumption in France, 1600-1800", pp.225~233 (2000), Cambridge University Press
- Paul Freedman, "Food: The History of Taste", pp.16~ (2007), University of California Press
- Susan Pinkard, "A Revolution in Taste: The Rise of French Cuisine, 1650-1800", pp.54~ (2009), Cambridge University Press
- Alan Davidson, "The Oxford Companion to Food", pp.675~ (2014), Oxford University Press
- 33)Barbara Wheaton, "Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789", pp.213~215 (1983), Touchstone
- Claude Lévi-Strauss, "The Raw and the Cooked, trans. John Weightman", pp.164~ (1969), University of Chicago Press
- Gillian Crowther, "Eating Culture: An Anthropological Guide to Food", pp.26~29 (2013), University of Toronto Press
- Clifford Geertz, "The Interpretation of Cultures", pp.5~ (1973), Basic Books
- Arjun Appadurai, "The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective" (1986), Cambridge University Press
- Martin Heidegger, "Poetry, Language, Thought", pp.165~182 (1971), Harper &Row
- Ileana Baird, "Eighteenth-Century Thing Theory in a Global Context: From Consumerism to Celebrity Culture" (2013), Ashgate
- Appadurai, Arjun(ed, "The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective" (1986), Cambridge University Press
- Bailey, Colin, "Patriotic Taste: Collecting Modern Art in Pre-Revolutionary Paris" (2002), Yale University Press
- Baird, Ileana, "Eighteenth-Century Thing Theory in a Global Context:From Consumerism to Celebrity Culture" (2013), Ashgate
- Bendiner, Kenneth, "Food in Painting: From the Renaissance to the Present" (2004), Reaktion Books
- Bryson, Norman, "Chardin and the Text of Still-Life", Critical Inquiry, 15(2), pp.227~252 (1989)
- Clark, Carol, "Jean-Baptiste Simeon Chardin: Still Iife with Herring", The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art, 61(9), pp.309~314 (1974)
- Conisbee, Philip, "Chardin" (1986), Phaidon
- Cozzi, Annette, "Composed Consumption: Picturing Nascent National Identity in Food Paintings", Food, Culture & Society, 16(4), pp.569~588 (2013)
- Crowther, Gillian, "Eating Culture: An Anthropological Guide to Food" (2013), University of Toronto Press
- Crow, Thomas, "Painters and Public Life in Eighteenth-Century Paris" (1985), Yale University Press
- Davidson, Alan, "The Oxford Companion to Food" (2014), Oxford University Press
- Diderot, Denis, "Diderot on Art I" (1995), Yale University Press
- Ferguson, Priscilla, "Accounting for Taste: The Triumph of French Cuisine" (2004), University of Chicago Press
- Freedman, Paul, "Food: The History of Taste" (2007), University of California Press
- Heidegger, Martin, "Poetry, Language, Thought" (1971), Harper & Row
- Lévi-Strauss, Claude, "The Raw and the Cooked" (1969), University of Chicago Press
- McPherson, Heather, "Public Space of the Domestic Sphere", pp.41~63 (1997), Mestengo Press
- Malaguzzi, Silvia, "Food and Feasting in Art" (2008), J. Paul Getty Museum
- McCoubrey, John, "The Revival of Chardin in French Still-Life Painting, 1850-1870", Art Bulletin, 46(1), pp.39~53 (1964)
- Pardailhe-Galabrun, Annik, "The Birth of Intimacy: Privacy and Domestic Life in Early Modern Paris" (1991), University of Pennsylvania Press
- Pinkard, Susan, "A Revolution in Taste: The Rise of French Cuisine, 1650-1800" (2009), Cambridge University Press
- Roche, Daniel, "A History of Everyday Things: The Birth of Consumption in France, 1600-1800" (2000), Cambridge University Press
- Rosenberg, Pierre, "Chardin: 1699-1779" (1979), Cleveland Museum of Art
- Rosenberg, Pierre, "Chardin" (2000), Royal Academy of Arts and the Metropolitan Museum of Art
- Rosenberg, Pierre, "Chardin" (2000), Prestel
- Snoep-Reitsma, Elia, "Chardin and the Bourgeois Ideals of His Time", Nederlands Kunsthistorisch Jaarboek, 24(1), pp.147~244 (1973)
- Spang, Rebecca, "The Invention of the Restaurant: Paris and Modern Gastronomic Culture" (2000), Harvard University Press
- Varriano, John, "Tastes and Temptations: Food and Art in Renaissance Italy" (2009), University of California Press
- Weisberg, Gabriel, "Chardin and the Still-Life Tradition in France" (1979), Cleveland Museum of Art
- Wheaton, Barbara, "Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789" (1983), Touchstone
- Wildenstein, Georges, "Chardin: Catalogue Raisonne" (1969), Cassirer