Gastronomic heritage elements at UNESCO: problems, reflections and interpretations on a new heritage category
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The 2003 UNESCO Convention for the Safeguarding ofthe Intangible Cultural Heritage paved the way as thefirst international and binding instrument to safeguard‘intangible cultural heritage’. ICH is a relatively newlydefinedconcept by UNESCO, differentiated from thecategory of UNESCO World Heritage related to the 1972Convention. This shift of paradigm – from tangible tointangible, from ‘cultural objects’ to ‘cultural processes’,and from protecting to safeguarding – constitutes arenewal of the definition and management of immaterialmanifestations as well as their inscription on theUNESCO ICH Lists. In 2010, the Traditional MexicanCuisine, the Mediterranean diet and the GastronomicMeal of the French were inscribed on the RepresentativeList of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. These inscriptions represented a step forward inUNESCO’s recognition of new heritage categories and,more specifically, the consideration of gastronomy withregard to its symbolic, identity and ritual role in societies. From 2010, more gastronomic elements made it to theList. Nevertheless, academic research on food heritagemainly analysed case studies about cuisine and foodinstead of providing theoretical perspectives, and theeffects of food heritagisation on the UNESCO List arefar from having been thoroughly studied and evaluatedthrough fieldwork. The aim of this paper is to explorethe ways in which heritage is constructed 1) starting bydefining cultural heritage, Intangible Cultural Heritageand gastronomic heritages, 2) continuing to challengethe actual feasibility of heritagising gastronomy and thesocial practices associated therewith, via UNESCO, and 3)ending with some reflections on the reasons for the greatinterest in inscribing food heritage with UNESCO.
Abstract
The 2003 UNESCO Convention for the Safeguarding ofthe Intangible Cultural Heritage paved the way as thefirst international and binding instrument to safeguard‘intangible cultural heritage’. ICH is a relatively newlydefinedconcept by UNESCO, differentiated from thecategory of UNESCO World Heritage related to the 1972Convention. This shift of paradigm – from tangible tointangible, from ‘cultural objects’ to ‘cultural processes’,and from protecting to safeguarding – constitutes arenewal of the definition and management of immaterialmanifestations as well as their inscription on theUNESCO ICH Lists. In 2010, the Traditional MexicanCuisine, the Mediterranean diet and the GastronomicMeal of the French were inscribed on the RepresentativeList of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. These inscriptions represented a step forward inUNESCO’s recognition of new heritage categories and,more specifically, the consideration of gastronomy withregard to its symbolic, identity and ritual role in societies. From 2010, more gastronomic elements made it to theList. Nevertheless, academic research on food heritagemainly analysed case studies about cuisine and foodinstead of providing theoretical perspectives, and theeffects of food heritagisation on the UNESCO List arefar from having been thoroughly studied and evaluatedthrough fieldwork. The aim of this paper is to explorethe ways in which heritage is constructed 1) starting bydefining cultural heritage, Intangible Cultural Heritageand gastronomic heritages, 2) continuing to challengethe actual feasibility of heritagising gastronomy and thesocial practices associated therewith, via UNESCO, and 3)ending with some reflections on the reasons for the greatinterest in inscribing food heritage with UNESCO.
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