조선후기 한중 방한모자의 비교

Abstract

Scholars regarded being in full dress as an etiquette in Joseon period, showing a touch of style with white robe and a black Gat (a traditional Korean top hat). This study addressed the type of hats worn by scholars, and reviewed how the winter cap evolved characteristically in the late Joseon period, compared with that in Chinese Qing period. The outline of this study is as follows: First, there were wider variety of types and shapes in Joseon period than in Chinese Qing period. Only two types of hat, including Taepyeonggeon and Malaeg, were used in everyday cloths in Qing period, whereas ten types of hat, including Manggeon, Tanggeon, Gat, Jeongjagwan, Jujagwan, Hyeomgyegwan, Dongpagwan, Chungjeonggwan and Banggwan, were used in Joseon period. Although hats were named after the renowned Chinese scholars, the materials, shapes and skills were localized in Joseon. The style acquired new and unique tastes with different materials and skills. As hats evolved toward the scholar's aesthetic taste, the hat craftsmanship was commercially specialized in the style (Manggeonjang, Tanggeonjang, Yangtaejang and Ipjajang). Second, the winter caps were available in wider variety of types and shapes in Joseon period than in Chinese Qing period. A winter cap was limited to an ear cover (Itu and Ieui), Pungmo (a modified hat) and Chomo (a fur hat) in Qing period. On the other hand, the ear cover variously evolved into Bolki, Aegeom, Hoaeg, Hohang, Pungcha, Hangpungcha, Sopungcha, Pigyeon, Samcheongeon and Yangjeongeon in Joseon period. A winter cap was developed on the ground that Gat was vulnerable in cold weather during the winter. In Qing period, Taepyeonggeon and Malaeg were still used as a winter cap, though the materials were changed into fur. For the winter cap in Joseon period, not only the materials, but the types and shapes were completely different from those of an ordinary hat Gat. The winter caps were mainly worn by men till 18th century, and were in fashion among women and children since 19th century when the use of wig was banned to the end of Joseon Dynasty. The winter caps became more colorful and used more decorative objects. However, an opening on the top to let a topknot stand out was traditionally remained in a men's winter cap. Third, a variety of winter caps was developed in Joseon period, because Gat, a symbol of scholars, was vulnerable to the cold weather. The winter caps were mostly dark, and has an opening on the top to let a topknot stand out. As men tied a topknot, wore Mangeon around the head across the forehead, and then wore Tanggeon before wearing Gat in Joseon period, a winter cap was worn on top of Tanggeon. Gat was made of bamboo and horsehair to maintain a neat and proper shape, whereas a winter cap was made of fabric and wool to be foldable. Hats also had come into fashion among women and children without distinction of age or sex.