조선시대 여모(女帽) 형태 연구

Abstract

Yeo‐mo (女帽) excavated from burials between the 15th and the 19th century in Joseon era is one of the women’s shrouds, a headgear worn on the head of the body. In Joseon where Confucianism was the national ideology, and all rituals in the nation or in the general households were adapted to the Confucianism formula, and to this end, many Confucians left a record of the costumes they wear when performing rituals. Among these records, we can also see Yeo‐mo. This study investigated the morphology of Yeo‐mo by using a combination of the literature and the relics excavated from the tomb of Joseon era. Through the study, we managed to derive meaningful conclusions about the origin of Yeo‐mo, the change of morphology, and the name of each part. As for the origin, there is a viewpoint that Yeo‐mo came from the combination of Somoja (小帽子) and a cone type headgear, but in addition to this, it is suggested that the shape may have gradually changed in a pouch type headgear with a long front and a short back. The types of relics are classified into 5 types including ① a cone type with string, ② a type with the front center cut, ③ a pouch type with long front and short back, ④ a pouch type with the same length for back and front, and ⑤ a type consisting of Mosin (帽身), cover, and band. The first four of these types are excavated only until the middle of the 17th century, and then only the fifth type appears. To look at the name of each part, the part is called ‘Mosin’ which surrounds the head circumference, and the part covering the front face is called Banggak (旁角) or Gak (脚). And it is called Wonsoae (圓殺) or Wonyik(圓翼) when it is cut and rounded out the corners. The parietal cover was called Gae(盖) or Jeonggae(頂盖), and the string was called Gak(角), Sugak(垂角), Gye(繫), Husoo(後垂), etc.