漢代 자전류의 頭衣 관련 어휘 연구

Abstract

This paper aims to examine the vocabulary related to headwear (頭衣) centered around ancient records and to explore the form of headwear in ancient China and its differences from those in ancient Korea. In Korean ancient headwear(頭衣), “折風” is described in Chinese literature as ‘similar to “弁”’, ‘like a “幘” but without “後(收)”’, and ‘“冠” with bird feathers inserted’. None of these descriptions perfectly match those in China. It is speculated that when recording at the time, there was uncertainty in describing a style different from that of officials in China, so similar characters were used. Therefore, there is no doubt that ancient Korean attire differed from that of China. I argue that simply interpreting 弁 in ancient Chinese literature as 弁 is not appropriate. The reasons are as follows: First, although it appears in texts such as 『詩經』, 『尚書』 and 『周禮』, it does not appear in texts such as 『急就篇』』 and 『爾雅』. Second, the 『說文』 considers 弁 as the predecessor of 冕. Third, there is a debate about the phonetic composition of 弁. Fourth, most of the works from the Warring States period were recompiled during the Han dynasty in clerical script. Fifth, there are conflicting records about the form of 弁. Therefore, I want to propose the possibility that 弁 evolved from a fusion of cultures from the nomadic peoples(胡) and Eastern Yi(東夷), resulting in the appearance of triangular(“goggal”) leather headwear during the late Han dynasty or the period of the Sixteen Kingdoms, which then mixed with items like the 通天冠 during the Han dynasty and transitioned into elaborate headwear.