조선후기 동파관(東坡冠)의 유형과 특성

Abstract

This study aimed to examine the style and features of Dongpagwan worn in the late Joseon period based on the review of relevant literature and paintings. As a hat that the noble man of Joseon often wore when they put on daily clothes, Dongpagwan originally meant a hat worn by Dongpa. Dongpagwan worn during the late Joseon period was classified into six styles, briefly described below. The first style is a single-structured hat with one flap, dubbed as drim at that time, in the back. The second is a double-structured hat that has one flap in the back. The third is a single-structured hat that has two flaps in the back. The fourth is a double-structured hat that has two flaps in the back. The fifth is a single hat with two flaps in the front and another two in the back. The sixth style is a doble-structured hat with no flap. Specifically, the first or second style is a hat generally used in Joseon and China. The third or fourth style is Joseon's version, though the first or second style inspired it, as mentioned. The fifth or sixth style is straight-lined in outer appearance. These features have something to do with Jeongjagwan, worn from the 16th through the 19th century in Joseon. Several factors contributed to the diversification of Dongpagwan styles in the late Joseon period. They include translating drim or flap into a prominent feature of Joseon's Dongpagwan as a result of detailed analysis of quite different Dongpa icons, changing and developing designs of Dongpagwan by replacement of hat materials from soft fabrics with stiff ones, and creating unconventional, unique designs taking into consideration political affiliations between Jeongja and Dongpa. Meanwhile, it is presumed that among the six styles this study examined, those double-structured with flap or flaps were sometimes mistaken for Jeongjagwan of the 18th century.