충렬왕대 ‘衣冠改變令’ 반포와 國俗의 보존

Abstract

This paper intends to analyze the “令境內皆服上國衣冠” article of the Koryŏsa and to examine the historical context and significance of the proclamation of this ordinance, as well as the nature of the national traditions involved in the relationship between the Koryŏ and Yuan regimes. Despite some resistance against the attire because of negative sentiments toward the Mongols, the use of the Mongol attire was initially disseminated among diplomatic groups. However, after the crowning of King Ch’ungnyŏl, these attitudes began to shift, as the attire became commonly worn by the ruling classes. After the “Ordinance of Attire Reform” was proclaimed, all government officials were required to adopt the Mongolian hair style, and public officers were dressed in Mongolian hats and Mongolian clothing (hobok), thereby establishing Mongolian clothing as the official government uniforms of the 13th and 14th centuries. The proclamation of the Ordinance was influenced by the context of a diplomatic need to establish trust with the Yuan. Under the hierarchical sovereign relationship between Koryŏ and Yuan, Yuan officials within Koryŏ often caused tensions between the two nations. Koryŏ sought to alleviate this issue with the practice of delegated native rule, and the Ordinance was proclaimed as a visible attempt to establish amicable relations under this native rule. The Ordinance demonstrated the flexibility of national traditions, as it used these national traditions for the diplomatic benefit of Koryŏ. As the relations with the Yuan stabilized and conflicts were culled, the nation maintained the traditions upheld from its foundation by adhering to the practices of imperial clothing.