병풀을 활용한 화장품 소재의 개발을 위한 연구
Research for Developing Cosmetic Ingredient using Centella asiatica
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초록
병풀(Centella asiatica)은 오랜 전통 의학에서 사용되어 온 약용 식물이다. 이 식물은 피부 질환, 상처, 긁힘, 화상 등 다양한 상태를 치료하는 광범위한 치료 특성으로 잘 알려져 있다. 주요 생리활성 화합물은 마데카소사이드, 아시아티코사이드, 마데카식산, 아시아틱산과 같은 트리테르펜 사포닌으로, 이는 중요한 약리활성을 나타낸다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 활성 성분의 수율을 높이기 위해 원료의 원산지와 추출 용매를 다르게 하여 추출물을 제조한 후, HPLC를 이용하여 각 성분의 함량을 분석하였으며, 가장 높은 함량을 가진 샘플을 선정하였다. 이후 선정된 샘플에 대해 항염, 항산화, 피부재생 실험을 진행하여 병풀 기반 화장품 성분으로서의 효능을 확인하였다. 한국, 중국, 인도, 마다가스카르에서 유래한 원료를 사용하여 물과 50%(v/v) 에탄올을 용매로 하여 각각 8개의 추출물을 제조한 후. 각 추출물에 함유된 물질의 분석을 실시한 결과, 마다가스카르산 병풀 50%(v/v) 에탄올 추출물이 가장 높은 활성 성분 함량을 함유하고 있었다. 또한 페놀계 화합물을 포함한 다른 피크들의 피크강도도 가장 높았다. 따라서 이 추출물을 화장품 소재로서 사용하기 위해 선정하였고, 추가 효능 평가를 수행하였다. MTT assay를 통해 세포 독성을 확인한 후, 항염(COX-2 억제), 항산화(DPPH assay), 피부 재생(상처 치유 assay) 효과를 평가한 결과 10 ppm 이상의 농도에서 항염 및 피부 재생 능력이 관찰되었고, 항산화 효과는 5 ppm 이상의 농도에서 유의적으로 나타났다. 마다가스카르 50%(v/v) 에탄올 추출물은 다양한 활성 화합물 및 효능을 보여 화장품 성분으로서의 가능성을 시사했다. 추가 연구는 상업화를 위한 스케일업 연구에 중점을 둘 계획이다.
Abstract
Centella asiatica is a medicinal plant with a long history of use in traditional medicine. This plant is renowned for its therapeutic properties, treating a range of conditions such as skin diseases, wounds, scratches, and burns. The key bioactive compounds are triterpenoid saponins like madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and asiatic acid, which exhibit significant pharmacological activities. In this study, extracts were prepared by varying the origins of the raw materials and the extraction solvents to maximize the yield of these active ingredients. Subsequently, the content of each component was analyzed using HPLC, and only one sample with the highest content was selected. Then, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin regeneration abilities were evaluated for the selected sample to determine the efficacy as a C. asiatica-based cosmetic ingredient. Eight extracts were prepared each using raw material of Korean, Chinese, Indian, and Madagascan origin with water and 50%(v/v) ethanol as solvents. The analysis of the substances contained in each extract revealed that the 50%(v/v) ethanol extract obtained from Madagascan C. asiatica had the highest content of active compounds. In addition, the intensities of the other peaks, including phenolic compounds, were also the highest. Thus, this extract was selected for use as a cosmetic ingredient, and additional efficacy evaluations were conducted. After confirming cytotoxicity through the MTT assay, the anti-inflammatory(COX-2 Inhibition), antioxidant(DPPH assay), and skin regeneration(wound healing assay) effects were assessed. The results showed that anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration abilities were observed at concentrations of 10 ppm or higher, and significant antioxidant effect was observed at concentrations of 5 ppm or above. The extract from Madagascar-origin and 50%(v/v) ethanol exhibited abundant compounds and promising efficacy, suggesting its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Further research will focus on scaling up production for commercialization.
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