『국긔복소션』에 기록된 19세기 왕실 여성의 기일복식 고찰

Abstract

『Guk Gi Bok Sik So Seon』 is a book concerning anniversaries of kings and queens' death, names of royal tombs, and anniversary costumesin the Joseon Dynasty. It has two versions: one is owned by Sookmyung Women's University Museum and the other is housed byOryundae Korea Martyrs Museum. Both versions are important materials that provide new historical data of the Korean traditional costumesin terms of anniversary costumes for royal women. This study tries to identify the time when those versions of Sookmyung Women'sUniversity and Oryundae were written and their author, characterize costumes in each version in terms of headdresses, costumes, shoes, accessories,and makeup, and identify the characteristics of the anniversary costumes for royal women in the nineteenth century by comparingthe two versions. Guk Gi Bok Sik gives information about bearings and costumes for royal women participating in annual memorial servicethree years of mourning after death of the precedent king and queen. It is presumed that the version of Sookmyung Women's Universitywas written approximately forty years earlier than that of Oryundae and that both versions were written by Gyeongbin Kim, a mistress ofHeonjong, the 24th king of the Joseon Dynasty. Both versions demonstrate that royal women had a simple meal with just a few dishes includingno fish or meat in respect for the precedent king and queen at the anniversary of death, got dressed in Whabangju, the coarsestand cheapest type of silk, and avoided splendid costumes and accessories, and put almost no makeup in making arrangements for and performingrites for the anniversary humbly and respectfully.